Ralph & Finns, Glasgow

  Ralph & Finns 23 – 25 St Vincent Place, Glasgow G1 2DT www.ralphandfinns.co.uk    0141 248 5636   The Bill Snacks £4.50 – £8.00 | Starters £5.00 – £15.00 Mains £15.00 – £37.50 | Desserts £5.00 – £7.50 The Score Cooking 6.5/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4/5  Value 4/5 TOTAL 19/25 I have…

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Book Reviews – Red Sauce Brown Sauce: Dirt

RED SAUCE BROWN SAUCE A British Breakfast Odyssey Felicity Cloake Mudlark                 pp373               £16.99                                   It was Somerset Maugham who said, to eat well in England you should have…

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Sandra Folkes-Joseph’s Curry Goat

On Wednesday, we introduced you to the remarkable Sandra Folkes-Joseph. Having spent some time in Antigua tracking it down, I was blown away by her signature dish of curry goat. Tongue in cheek, I offered my services in her kitchen free in exchange for the the recipe. With astonishing generosity she sent it to me …

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Catherine’s Café, English Harbour, Antigua

  Catherine’s Café Pigeon Point Beach, English Harbour, Antigua +1 268  782 5050  www.catherinescafe.com The Bill  (For the price conversion, see below. Rounded to the nearest £0.50) Starters £13.00 – £216.00 | Mains £21.00 – £54.50 Desserts £9.50 – £13.00 The Score Cooking 5.5/10 | Service 1/5 | Flavour 3.5/5  Value 1/5 TOTAL 11/25 It’s…

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Things to Do with Mangoes

Well on Wednesday you had me rhapsodising about mangoes in the flesh, as it were, luscious, soft, exquisite, juicy … (that’s quite enough – Ed.) But if you can’t get fruit of that quality, you can still do good things. The first of these is a recipe of L’s, always popular if catering for a…

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M is for … Mango

Mangoes in Antigua Prominent among the products of J K Rowling’s imagination were the food and the sweets beloved of her heroes and heroines. In particular I remember Bertie Bott’s Every Flavour Beans. It is significant that the good Mr Bott had no need to create an Every Flavour Fruit. It exists and is called the…

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Focus on Venison Part 1

Here at Johnston Towers we’ve been eating a lot of venison of late. In a fit of thoughtless shopping I’d stocked up the freezer at Castle Game Scotland just a week before my butchery course at Edinburgh School of Food & Wine. To be frank it’s no hardship. I know I’ve featured venison dishes before,…

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The Little Chartroom, Edinburgh

  The Little Chartroom 14 Bonnington Road, Edinburgh EH6 5JD 0131 556 6600  www.thelittlechartroom.com The Bill Starters £15.00 – £15.50 | Mains £27.50 – £32.00 Desserts £10.50 – £11.50 The Score Cooking 8.5/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5  Value 5/5 TOTAL 23/25 Beginnings are tricky. Ask any columnist. Or indeed any Gospel writer. Take…

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Is It Just Me? The Right Tool for the Right Job

I have to share something personal and embarrassing with you. Is it just me? The it in question is insistence on a very specific implement for a particular job, even though one’s batterie de cuisine contains many alternatives. A couple of years ago I counted up 118 gizmos in two drawers under the hob. But,…

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Suprème de Volaille aux Petits Pois à la Française

Before the break I wrote about a memorable week’s butchery course at the Edinburgh School of Food & Wine. As well as cutting up animals, we did a fair bit of cooking. Course teacher Ash and I lunched very well, and usually quite late, to the discomfiture of trouble and strife L. Not only did…

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Restaurante José Carlos Garcia, Màlaga, Spain

  Restaurante José Carlos Garcia Plaza  de la Capilla, Puerto de Màlaga 29001, Spain + 34 952 003 588  www.restaurantejcg.com   The Bill  Menu 126€ Tasting  Menu 198.50€ The Score Cooking 9.5/10 | Service 4/5 | Flavour 5/5  Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 23/25 Màlaga’s Paseo de la Farola is a modern bustling place. After the line…

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Strawberry Sorbet and Granita

Last week we mentioned in passing strawberry coulis. Making a sorbet, or its crunchier cousin a granita, are just variations on the theme though the technique is slightly different. I’ll repeat last week’s disclaimer that the requisite degree of sweetness will depend on your berries and your personal taste. In true cheffy style I should…

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Ardnamurchan Scottish Restaurant & Bar, Glasgow

   Ardnamurchan Scottish Restaurant & Bar   325 Hope Street, Glasgow G2 3PT 0141 353 1500  www.ardnamurchan.biz The Bill Market Menu 2 courses £17.95 3 courses £20.95  A la carte Starters £5.00 – £12.00 | Mains £16.00 – £30.00 Puddings £5.00 – £7.50 The Score Cooking 4/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 3/5  Value 4/5 TOTAL…

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A Lot of Meat at The Edinburgh School of Food & Wine

On Sunday I was cooking burgers at the Jubilee street party. Been up to much this week? enquired a friend. Yes indeed, I replied. Five days cutting up dead animals. It’s not the most normal of replies, and attracted the attention of a good few folk. More details? Certainly. Ash MacMillan A couple of months ago, I wrote about…

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Clipstone, London

  Clipstone 5 Clipstone Street, London W1W 6BB  020 7637 0871 www.clipstonerestaurant.co.uk     The Bill  Lunch Snacks £4.00 – £8.50 2 courses £30.00 | 3 courses £35.00 Dinner Snacks £4.00 – £8.50 | Starters £13.00 – £14.00 Mains £21.00 – £29.00 | Desserts £9.50 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 5/5 …

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Strawberry Cheesecake With Strawberry Coulis

We’re starting to get into prime strawberry season,  one of summer’s principal delights. I refer of course to British strawberries, not these ghastly forced things, consistency of wood, which arrive bearing hundreds if not thousands of air miles. But be warned. In the early part of the growing season on this sceptred isle, you will…

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National Barbecue Month? In May?

As the rain bounces off my window, I have two inspirations for today’s column. The first of these was reading that someone somewhere had decreed May to be the National Barbecue Month. In fairness, the weather in Scotland in May can often be surprisingly good. Sadly, not this year. I have cleaned my barbie in…

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UNALOME by Graeme Cheevers, Glasgow

  UNALOME by Graeme Cheevers 36 Kelvingrove Street, Glasgow G3 7RZ 0141 501 0553  www.unalomebygc.com   The Bill   A la Carte  3 courses £90  Tasting Menu 6 courses £110 Tasting of Vegetables Menu  6 courses £110 The Score Cooking 9.5/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 5/5  Value 5/5 TOTAL 24.5/25 So what’s the coolest…

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Do You Know The Michelin Man?

No one does, of course. These faceless men and women who selflessly eat out anonymously in the world’s finest establishments, paying their bill at the end and leaving without comment. But what is Michelin all about? The idea for this piece came about from a conversation over dinner. In a Michelin starred restaurant, as it…

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