Marisa Masoero’s Risotto alla Milanese

With the onset of winter you expect the temperature to drop. That’s fine. In fact I rather enjoy the clear, crisp, blue skied days, but not those damp, dank ones where the cold seems to seep into your bone marrow. At such times comfort food is called for. But which one? Looking through the archives…

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Salt Cod with Cream (Bacalhau com Natas)

This is a homage to Portugal where I holidayed recently. The country is the world’s largest consumer of salt cod. In every supermarket you’ll see racks and racks of the stuff, stiff as a board, probably handy as an offensive weapon. You’ll find variations wherever cod was common, Newfoundland, Norway and the Faroe Islands. It’s…

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Chicken with Peppers, Olives & Black Pudding

While there are probably no new recipes under the sun, this one did come out of my head. One of the many reasons I like Nigel Slater so much is that he says he will often just decide what to cook for dinner when looking at the contents of his fridge. While his TV programmes…

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Boeuf Bourgignon/ a la Bourgignonne/ Beef Stew

Call this beef stew if you like, but that’s akin to saying that Leonardo da Vinci could paint a wee bit. Today’s column was inspired by two things. After being delighted by Felicity Cloake’s Red Sauce, Brown Sauce, reviewed in On The Side a few weeks ago, I bought a copy of her earlier work, One More…

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… Breaking Eggs

Well, what a stooshie we had after last week’s article about omelettes. I fear I may have lost a couple of friends in the fall out. I shall say no more other than to quote the wise words of Elizabeth David in French Provincial Cooking. As everybody knows, there is only one infallible recipe for…

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Other Schnitzels Are Available

Last week’s article about Wiener schnitzel attracted a bigger postbag than usual. Breaking free of the authoritative Austrian shackles – it must be veal and it must be made in Austria – two things became clear. It’s a great favourite of many of you, and the majority would use pork or chicken over veal. The…

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You Can’t Make An Omelette Without…

French Style That’s actually true of many people. Never mind. The inspiration for today came from the chronicles of Mr C’s trip to Egypt. Among his many posts on social media, he commented on the (poor) quality of the omelettes served to him in a particular hotel. They were so poor that he felt he…

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Wiener Schnitzel

Today’s ramblings were inspired by two things. A recent visit from the Vienna based members of the family brought back memories of my first (and thus far only) trip there earlier this year; and a brief snippet from a Radio 4 programme this morning. Wiener schnitzel translates simply as cutlet from Vienna. What I didn’t realise…

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Claire Macdonald’s Sardine and Mushroom Paté

Now don’t recoil in horror. I can guarantee three things. Firstly, if it’s a Claire Macdonald recipe, it will work, no matter how unlikely the combination of ingredients may sound. Secondly, although there are only three principal ingredients, no one will correctly guess all three. And finally, it is absolutely delicious. And if it’s a…

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Ravioli with Vegetables, Cheese and Walnuts

I tried to steal spaghetti from the shop, but the female guard saw me, and I couldn’t get pasta. Believe it or not, Masai Graham’s piece of hilarity was voted the funniest joke at the year’s Edinburgh Festival Fringe. It did two things for me. Firstly, I found it a depressingly sad reflection of the…

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Will The Real Martini Please Stand Up?

Charles Dickens goes into a bar. -I’ll have a martini, please. -Certainly, sir. Olive or twist? Your task is to spot the anachronism. Well the cocktail (then known as a Martinez, named for a town in California) almost certainly existed at the time of Dickens’ last trip to the States; however, the practice of adding…

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Gazpacho

You ungrateful lot may not appreciate it, but this recipe writing is fraught with peril, not to say downright danger. Seasonality is one thing, but to publish a recipe which works only when the mercury is high can be fool hardy at best. Worse still if you have a restaurant and need to plan menus…

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Caribbean Rice and Peas

Way back I used to be a lawyer, remember? That’s why you have to trust me. It’s also why my disclaimers are printed very clearly at the top. #1 This recipe is not from last week’s heroine Sandra Folkes-Joseph. I did ask her, but I was pushing my luck. Once I get her the publishing…

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Sandra Folkes-Joseph’s Curry Goat

On Wednesday, we introduced you to the remarkable Sandra Folkes-Joseph. Having spent some time in Antigua tracking it down, I was blown away by her signature dish of curry goat. Tongue in cheek, I offered my services in her kitchen free in exchange for the the recipe. With astonishing generosity she sent it to me …

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Things to Do with Mangoes

Well on Wednesday you had me rhapsodising about mangoes in the flesh, as it were, luscious, soft, exquisite, juicy … (that’s quite enough – Ed.) But if you can’t get fruit of that quality, you can still do good things. The first of these is a recipe of L’s, always popular if catering for a…

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Focus on Venison Part 1

Here at Johnston Towers we’ve been eating a lot of venison of late. In a fit of thoughtless shopping I’d stocked up the freezer at Castle Game Scotland just a week before my butchery course at Edinburgh School of Food & Wine. To be frank it’s no hardship. I know I’ve featured venison dishes before,…

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Suprème de Volaille aux Petits Pois à la Française

Before the break I wrote about a memorable week’s butchery course at the Edinburgh School of Food & Wine. As well as cutting up animals, we did a fair bit of cooking. Course teacher Ash and I lunched very well, and usually quite late, to the discomfiture of trouble and strife L. Not only did…

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Strawberry Sorbet and Granita

Last week we mentioned in passing strawberry coulis. Making a sorbet, or its crunchier cousin a granita, are just variations on the theme though the technique is slightly different. I’ll repeat last week’s disclaimer that the requisite degree of sweetness will depend on your berries and your personal taste. In true cheffy style I should…

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Strawberry Cheesecake With Strawberry Coulis

We’re starting to get into prime strawberry season,  one of summer’s principal delights. I refer of course to British strawberries, not these ghastly forced things, consistency of wood, which arrive bearing hundreds if not thousands of air miles. But be warned. In the early part of the growing season on this sceptred isle, you will…

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National Barbecue Month? In May?

As the rain bounces off my window, I have two inspirations for today’s column. The first of these was reading that someone somewhere had decreed May to be the National Barbecue Month. In fairness, the weather in Scotland in May can often be surprisingly good. Sadly, not this year. I have cleaned my barbie in…

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Glenlivet and Bon Accord Do Cocktails

I wrote recently about attending the Masterchefs of GB lunch. There were sponsors a-plenty and we all received a goody bag to take home. Sponsors included The Glenlivet whisky and Bon Accord soft drinks. Not only did the bag have samples, it contained a few cocktail recipes which I thought I would share. But first,…

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Jerusalem Artichoke and Ginger Soup

This is a very short recipe – soup ones always are. I was doing some fridge tidying up before we headed off to London for a few days’ hedonism. In the depths of the vegetable drawer (so often a source of inspiration for off the wall stuff) I discovered a bag of Jerusalem artichokes. It…

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Ann Smyth’s Flourless Chocolate Cake

I am not a great eater of puddings. You may have noticed that the dessert selection is often missing from the Tom Eats! column. (My simple response is to say that it seems to work for Giles Coren, and he’s made a good living out of his scribblings.) I make an exception, however, whenever I…

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