Ottolenghi Edinburgh

  Ottolenghi Edinburgh 92 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 3DF 0131 388 1888   www.ottolenghi.co.uk/pages/restaurants/edinburgh The Bill  A la carte   Starters £15.00 | Large Plates £21.00 – £42.00  Claypots & Sharers (for 2+) £21.00 – £42.00 Dessert £4.00 – £10.00 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Flavour 4.5/5 Service 5/5 | Value 4.5/5  TOTAL 21/25  Yes, I know it’s…

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Slav S’s Beef Stroganov

This recipe (and its author) require a little introduction. Slav and I have never met. He blew into the blog a few months ago and took to reading with some care my back catalogue. New readers are very welcome. Constructive criticism is also welcome, though perhaps in smaller doses than I got over a month…

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Cream Thoughts

Single versus double; sour; fresh; sweet and heavy; clotted. Oh, and buttermilk. Have you ever paused to give any of these a moment’s thought? And if so, have you found yourself confused? It may seem an odd topic for today’s article, given that L has an allergy/intolerance. (Would someone with the appropriate knowledge remind me…

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Meg Johnston’s Potted Hough

Last week we had a recipe for braised beef shin (hough). A few people got in touch to discuss potted hough, otherwise potted meat, otherwise potted head. Round at the house of some friends for supper, we were served (bought) potted meat as a starter. I remember my Mum making hers, and very good it…

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The Shore Bar & Restaurant, Leith, Edinburgh

  The Shore Bar & Restaurant 3 The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6QW 0131 553 5080  www.fishersrestaurants.co.uk/shore-bar-and-restaurant/ The Bill  Set Fixed Price Menu 2 courses £15.50 | 3 courses £18.50 A la carte   Starters £10.50 – £13.50 | Crustacea £8.50 – £23.50  Mains £18.00 – £46.00 | Dessert £9.00 – £9.50 The Score Cooking 7/10…

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Some More Books

Of late my stated aim of one in, one out when it comes to cook books has failed. Never mind. Here are three which have arrived on the shelves recently. The first is something of a classic. In a fairly recent review of chefs choosing their favourite books, this featured frequently. The original first appeared…

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Braised Beef Shin

This is my first slow cook of the autumn. I see I wrote a variation of this six or so years ago, one which I will now denounce as being unnecessarily complicated. I’ve written so many stew/casserole/daube recipes now that I feel something of a fraud as they are all so similar. I’ll justify today’s…

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Osteria del Tempo Perso, Ravenna

  Osteria del Tempo Perso Via Gamba 12 48121 Ravenna +39 544 215393  www.osteriadeltempoperso.it The Bill (Euros)  Tasting Menu 5 courses €55.00 A la carte   Antipasti €14.00 – €16.00 | Primi Piatti €15.00 – €18.00  Pietanze €14.00 – €30.00 | Dessert €6.00 – €8.00 The Score Cooking 5.5/10 | Flavour 4/5 Service 5/5 | Value 5/5 …

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Tom’s Ode to Autumn

Yes, I know the fellow Keats got there first (though his title is simply To Autumn). Odeless, one might say. But for all his talents, I don’t think culinary skills were among them. Dying at 25, I don’t suppose he got the chance to learn how to make a good risotto. But I shall ode: I shall…

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Risotto with Shallot, Bottarga (Grey Mullet Roe) and Lemon

This is my take on the stunning risotto which I ate at Antica Trattoria Al Gallo 1909 in Ravenna a week or two ago. I have no inside knowledge, but I’ve done some research. They used the salted, cured roe (bottarga) of sea bass, which I had never encountered before. The more commonly found variety…

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Brace da Donati, San Marino

  Brace da Donati Contrada Santa Croce 39, 47890, Città di San Marino +378 335 196 1799   www.bracedadonati.com* * At the time of publication the website was unavailable The Bill (Euros)  Tasting Menu (Oops! Didn’t notice) A la carte   Antipasti €16.00 – €18.00 | Primi Piatti €16.00 – €22.00  Secondi Piatti €16.00 – €30.00 | Dolci…

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Risottos – Why Yours Aren’t As Good as The Italians

Our last week in Italy. Their food is simple, but sometimes deceptively so. Let’s consider one of the great, classic dishes and how to make it better. I have eaten a few phenomenal risottos while I’ve been here. They are silky; they are creamy; they have bite. They are fabulous. I wouldn’t pretend to know…

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Antica Trattoria Al Gallo 1909, Ravenna

  Antica Trattoria al Gallo 1909 Via Maggiore 87, 48123, Ravenna, Italy + 39 0544 213775    www.algallo1909.it The Bill (Euros)  A la carte   Antipasti €10.00 – €14.00 | Primi Piatti €15.00 – €16.00  Secondi Piatti €16.00 – €22.00 | Dolci €7.00  The Score Cooking 7/10 | Flavour 4.5/5 Service 5/5 | Value 5/5  TOTAL…

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Gnocchi at Home

Well, having considered them on Wednesday, I thought we should cook them today. Teeny problem – not something I’ve ever done. I looked around and came on a piece by Michel Roux jr. Never a bad place to start, I thought. His recipe? Take 1 pack of store bought gnocchi. Hmm. Though I did once have…

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G is for…Gnocchi

So, what do we know about gnocchi? Pasta’s lumpy cousin? Well, they’re usually made with potato and they’ve been around since Roman times. Actually both true, but pause to consider that impossible juxtaposition. We know that the potato has been in Europe for a mere 400 years or so (see P is for Potato from…

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Trattoria La Rustica, Ravenna

  Trattoria La Rustica  Via Massimo d’Azeglio 28   48121 Ravenna +39 0544 218 128    www-trattoria–larustica-it The Bill (Euros)  A la carte   Antipasti €9.00 – €18.00 | Primi Piatti €9.00 – €14.00  Secondi Piatti €14.00 – €22.00 | Dolci €5.00 – €6.00 The Score Cooking: Starters 8/10 | Meat 2/10 – Average 5/10 Flavour: Starters…

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Porchetta

italian porchetta in a market in la spezia They love their pork here in Italy. The ultimate pork dish surely has to be porchetta. I had heard many enthusing; however, in my ignorance I had thought it was the Italian way with roast pork, just with more herbs. How wrong can you be. In summary…

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Pasta I Love Thee. Let Me Count The Ways

During my Royal Mile Tours for guests of the Edinburgh Festival Guides Association in August, I pose a question. How many individual performances were there in festivals in the city in the previous month of August? The answers are always wildly out: the only person who ever got close was a lady who thought she…

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Ca’ de Vèn, Ravenna, Italy

  Ca’ de Vèn 24 Via Corrado Ricci, 48121 Ravenna +39 0544 30163  www.cadeven.it The Bill (Euros)  A la carte  Piadine/Crescioni €1.50 – €7.50 | Antipasti €6.00 – €13.50  Primi Piatti €11.00 – €13.50 | Secondi Piatti €16.50 – €22.50 Dolci €5.00 – €7.00 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 4/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value…

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Peaches and Nectarines in Wine

I’m not sure that we ever get the very best of these glorious fruit at home. The reason is obvious. They are at their very best when just picked ripe off the tree. In that case of course, they have no chance of surviving the journey. Ripen at home is an activity fraught with peril. For…

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Holiday Homes: Why It’s (Sometimes) Fun To Improvise

Today finds us comfortably ensconced in Ravenna, the eastern town, and sometime capital, of Emilia Romagna. Very happily ensconced, it must be said. L’s researches have found for us a second floor apartment with large balcony, ten minutes from the city centre. While the website pictures will show you the accommodation, I would suggest that…

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Courgettes – Got A Glut?

I was going to do a cherry recipe today, but the season is nearly over. Courgettes, on the other hand, are growing like Triffids. Here’s a tip if you have an allotment. At planting time, discover what your neighbours are sowing. It makes the bartering at harvest time much simpler. We have a healthy specimen…

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Frizzante Proseccheria, Edinburgh

  Frizzante Proseccheria 95 Lothian Road, Edinburgh EH3 9AW 0131 229 7788     www.frizzanterestaurant.uk The Bill  A la carte  Starters £5.90 – £11.50 | Mains £14.90 – £27.50 Dolci £2.95 – £10.90 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 3.5/5 | Value 4/5  TOTAL 17.5/25  It was a very fine day. The last tour…

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Sommelier Watch, Featuring Glen Montgomery of eòrna

This is a new feature. As you know we have interviewed numerous chefs over the years, but this is the first time we’ve turned the spotlight on a sommelier. For many years I was a little suspicious, not to say fearful, of the breed. I have now encountered enough of them to make me realise…

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