Lesley Johnston’s Orange Marmalade

Tom Cooks! is continuing the theme of things to spread on your toast. That’s about the only thing that today’s recipe has in common with last week’s lemon curd. That one was quick. This week’s, like January itself, seems to go on for ever. Seville oranges will only be available for another couple of weeks…

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Lokál Dlouhááá, Prague

  Lokál Dlouhááá Dlouhá 33, 110 00 Staré Město, Czechia +420 734 283 874 www.lokal-dlouha.ambi.cz/en/ The Bill (£1 = 25 CZK) Starters £2.40 – £5.50 | Mains £7.00 – £11.40 Desserts £2.40 – £3.60   The Score Cooking 5.5/10 | Service 4/5  Flavour 4/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 18.5/25 In the mid 1990s when Bill Bryson…

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O is for Orange

I’m not sure that I really understand what genetic modification is. What I do know is that, even leaving genes out of the equation, mankind has been mucking about with its fruit and veg for centuries. Never more it seems, than with today’s hero, the orange. Given the ubiquity of the fruit, it surprised me…

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A Street Near You, Mia Italian Kitchen Dalry, Edinburgh

  Mia Italian Kitchen Dalry 96 Dalry Road, Edinburgh EH11 2AX 0131 629 1750   www.mia-restaurant.co.uk The Bill Lunch Menu (Mon – Fri: 12 – 3) 2 courses £11.95 | 3 courses £13.95 A la carte Starters £4.25 – £10.95 | Mains £8.95 – £25.95 Desserts £4.95 – £7.50   The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 4.5/5 …

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Liz Turnbull’s Quick Lemon Curd

So do you have a citrus problem? Find them coming at you from everywhere? That happened to us last year. We threw our first party in over two years. Both L and I both bought lemons and limes by the ton, and probably used but two on the day. Nothing worse than watching them shrinking…

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Claire Macdonald’s Pheasant Terrine

Claire Macdonald This is a genius of a recipe. Even by Claire Macdonald’s standards she has surpassed herself. And with the pheasant season drawing to a close pheasant breasts are really economical. I think I paid £3 for the meat for the whole dish. With a terrine, you generally require a chutney. No need here…

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Haar Restaurant with Rooms, St Andrews

  Haar Restaurant with Rooms 1 Golf Place, St Andrews KY16 9JA 01334 479281 www.haarrestaurant.com The Bill Five Course Tasting Menu £82.50  Optional Extra Courses £18.00 – £25.00   The Score Cooking 8.5/10 | Service 1/5  Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 3/5 TOTAL 17/25 Oh, Dean Banks. I’ll begin the year with a quotation from a well known…

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The Death of Fine Dining?

This article was influenced by two things. Firstly, there was the announcement that chef René Redzepi is to close his renowned restaurant Noma in 2024. Situated in the Danish capital Copenhagen, Noma has five times been voted the world’s best restaurant. And secondly there was the rather lurid headline in Sunday’s Observer that Jay Rayner…

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Why Read Tom Cooks!?

I mentioned a month or two ago that – to my own surprise – this column has just celebrated its seventh birthday. 7 years. A time for introspection, albeit one without an itch. It started off on the back of two cook books. The first was written for me by my mum when I was…

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Review of the Year 2022 Part 2: 1 – 20

Well, here they are, the champions of 2022. 21 scoring 70% or over; 7 over 90%, and 1 perfect 25/25, only the second in the history of Tom Eats! Wow! Congratulations to the ladies and gentlemen in question, and their teams. *** Signifies Guest Reviewer*** Restaurant Score Comments 1  Aizle, Edinburgh 25 Take a bow, Stuart…

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Review of the Year 2022 Part 1: 21 – 35

  Another 12 months, another review of the year. Well, what went wrong this year? Let’s start with the insignificant personal stuff. Last year we published 27 reviews. Never again, I said. This year we’ll get out more and write less. Ah well, we have 35 this year – how did that happen? On a…

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Light of Bengal, Aberdeen – Guest Reviewer David Dickson

  Light of Bengal 13 Rose St, Aberdeen, AB10 1TX 01224 648224       www.lightofbengalaberdeen.co.uk The Bill Starters £4.95 – £9.95 | Mains £12.95 – £19.95  Rice £3.95 – £5.45 | Vegetable sides £6.45   Breads £1.95 – £5.45 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 4/5  Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 19/25 A bitterly cold night in the…

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Eggs Benedict – The Real McCoy and a Cheat’s Version

The original plan for today was to give you a stollen recipe; however, that would have been three sweet things in a row, and I haven’t had time to test it. Next year, perhaps. So, staying seasonal, what shall we have? Over the next two or three weeks, eating patterns will change for many of…

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Ingredients and Gadgets – The Floor is Yours

How many of you know what this is? For nearly three years now we’ve been running the Chef Watch feature. Perhaps it needs a little freshening up – especially now that a certain lady in The Scotsman has not only adopted it, but also copied most of the questions. There is a certain sameness (if…

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Wendy Barrie’s Scottish Trifle

Many families like a trifle on the table at Christmas time. This recipe is taken from Wendy Barrie’s book, Meadows: The Swedish Farmer & The Scottish Cook which we reviewed on Wednesday. A badly made trifle can be disgusting. There are no shortcuts in this recipe as it features home made Swiss roll for the…

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Six by Nico, Glasgow – Guest Reviewer David Steele

  Six by Nico Glasgow 1132 Argyle Street, Glasgow G3 8TD 0141 334 5661 www.sixbynico.co.uk The Bill Six Course Tasting Menu £37.00  Matching Wines £30.00 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 3/5  Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 18/25 David Steele It seemed an excellent way to celebrate the boy’s significant birthday – a visit to the…

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Books for Christmas 2022

Less than three weeks to go. Admit it, you’re stuck for ideas aren’t you? It gets easier if you’re buying something for a food lover, but beware. I have cupboards stuffed full of interesting, but unopened packets of rare condiments, and we’re still working our way, very slowly, through the five mills of golden salt…

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Sarah Mellersh’s Gingerbread

With Christmas approaching, I had a fancy to include a cake recipe. Not a traditional Christmas cake – for me it has too much similarity to Christmas pudding, the true highlight (after the roast potatoes) of Christmas dinner. I acquired a stollen recipe from a friend, but I’m suspicious of the yeast quantities given. Not…

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Borough, Edinburgh

  Borough 50 – 54 Henderson Street, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 ,6DE 0131 554 7655 www.boroughrestaurant.com   The Bill Lunch Set Lunch 3 courses £25.00 Dinner 5 courses £55.00 The Score Cooking 9/10 | Service 5/5  Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 24/25 Remarkable things happen in this irregularly shaped, rather plain room. Here I featured…

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Marisa Masoero’s Risotto alla Milanese

With the onset of winter you expect the temperature to drop. That’s fine. In fact I rather enjoy the clear, crisp, blue skied days, but not those damp, dank ones where the cold seems to seep into your bone marrow. At such times comfort food is called for. But which one? Looking through the archives…

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Red Onion, Glasgow

  257 West Campbell Street, Glasgow, G2 4TT 0141 221 6000   www.red-onion.co.uk The Bill  Fixed Price Menu  2 courses £19.50 | 3 courses £25.00 A la carte Starters £5.00 – £12.00 | Mains £14.00 – £30.00 Desserts ? The Score Cooking 4/10 | Service 4/5  Flavour  3/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 15/25 Today’s story begins…

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The Customer Is Always Right? Part 1

The local GP and his wife enter your restaurant. The exchange between them and your waiter goes something like this. Table for two, please. We’ve booked. Smith. Yeah, I know. Mrs Smith, did you look in the mirror before you came out? What on earth made you think that top goes with that skirt? And…

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