Posts by Tom Johnston
Ottolenghi Edinburgh
Ottolenghi Edinburgh 92 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 3DF 0131 388 1888 www.ottolenghi.co.uk/pages/restaurants/edinburgh The Bill A la carte Starters £15.00 | Large Plates £21.00 – £42.00 Claypots & Sharers (for 2+) £21.00 – £42.00 Dessert £4.00 – £10.00 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Flavour 4.5/5 Service 5/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 21/25 Yes, I know it’s…
Read MoreSlav S’s Beef Stroganov
This recipe (and its author) require a little introduction. Slav and I have never met. He blew into the blog a few months ago and took to reading with some care my back catalogue. New readers are very welcome. Constructive criticism is also welcome, though perhaps in smaller doses than I got over a month…
Read MoreCream Thoughts
Single versus double; sour; fresh; sweet and heavy; clotted. Oh, and buttermilk. Have you ever paused to give any of these a moment’s thought? And if so, have you found yourself confused? It may seem an odd topic for today’s article, given that L has an allergy/intolerance. (Would someone with the appropriate knowledge remind me…
Read MoreMeg Johnston’s Potted Hough
Last week we had a recipe for braised beef shin (hough). A few people got in touch to discuss potted hough, otherwise potted meat, otherwise potted head. Round at the house of some friends for supper, we were served (bought) potted meat as a starter. I remember my Mum making hers, and very good it…
Read MoreThe Shore Bar & Restaurant, Leith, Edinburgh
The Shore Bar & Restaurant 3 The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6QW 0131 553 5080 www.fishersrestaurants.co.uk/shore-bar-and-restaurant/ The Bill Set Fixed Price Menu 2 courses £15.50 | 3 courses £18.50 A la carte Starters £10.50 – £13.50 | Crustacea £8.50 – £23.50 Mains £18.00 – £46.00 | Dessert £9.00 – £9.50 The Score Cooking 7/10…
Read MoreSome More Books
Of late my stated aim of one in, one out when it comes to cook books has failed. Never mind. Here are three which have arrived on the shelves recently. The first is something of a classic. In a fairly recent review of chefs choosing their favourite books, this featured frequently. The original first appeared…
Read MoreBraised Beef Shin
This is my first slow cook of the autumn. I see I wrote a variation of this six or so years ago, one which I will now denounce as being unnecessarily complicated. I’ve written so many stew/casserole/daube recipes now that I feel something of a fraud as they are all so similar. I’ll justify today’s…
Read MoreOsteria del Tempo Perso, Ravenna
Osteria del Tempo Perso Via Gamba 12 48121 Ravenna +39 544 215393 www.osteriadeltempoperso.it The Bill (Euros) Tasting Menu 5 courses €55.00 A la carte Antipasti €14.00 – €16.00 | Primi Piatti €15.00 – €18.00 Pietanze €14.00 – €30.00 | Dessert €6.00 – €8.00 The Score Cooking 5.5/10 | Flavour 4/5 Service 5/5 | Value 5/5 …
Read MoreTom’s Ode to Autumn
Yes, I know the fellow Keats got there first (though his title is simply To Autumn). Odeless, one might say. But for all his talents, I don’t think culinary skills were among them. Dying at 25, I don’t suppose he got the chance to learn how to make a good risotto. But I shall ode: I shall…
Read MoreRisotto with Shallot, Bottarga (Grey Mullet Roe) and Lemon
This is my take on the stunning risotto which I ate at Antica Trattoria Al Gallo 1909 in Ravenna a week or two ago. I have no inside knowledge, but I’ve done some research. They used the salted, cured roe (bottarga) of sea bass, which I had never encountered before. The more commonly found variety…
Read MoreBrace da Donati, San Marino
Brace da Donati Contrada Santa Croce 39, 47890, Città di San Marino +378 335 196 1799 www.bracedadonati.com* * At the time of publication the website was unavailable The Bill (Euros) Tasting Menu (Oops! Didn’t notice) A la carte Antipasti €16.00 – €18.00 | Primi Piatti €16.00 – €22.00 Secondi Piatti €16.00 – €30.00 | Dolci…
Read MoreRisottos – Why Yours Aren’t As Good as The Italians
Our last week in Italy. Their food is simple, but sometimes deceptively so. Let’s consider one of the great, classic dishes and how to make it better. I have eaten a few phenomenal risottos while I’ve been here. They are silky; they are creamy; they have bite. They are fabulous. I wouldn’t pretend to know…
Read MoreAntica Trattoria Al Gallo 1909, Ravenna
Antica Trattoria al Gallo 1909 Via Maggiore 87, 48123, Ravenna, Italy + 39 0544 213775 www.algallo1909.it The Bill (Euros) A la carte Antipasti €10.00 – €14.00 | Primi Piatti €15.00 – €16.00 Secondi Piatti €16.00 – €22.00 | Dolci €7.00 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Flavour 4.5/5 Service 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL…
Read MoreGnocchi at Home
Well, having considered them on Wednesday, I thought we should cook them today. Teeny problem – not something I’ve ever done. I looked around and came on a piece by Michel Roux jr. Never a bad place to start, I thought. His recipe? Take 1 pack of store bought gnocchi. Hmm. Though I did once have…
Read MoreG is for…Gnocchi
So, what do we know about gnocchi? Pasta’s lumpy cousin? Well, they’re usually made with potato and they’ve been around since Roman times. Actually both true, but pause to consider that impossible juxtaposition. We know that the potato has been in Europe for a mere 400 years or so (see P is for Potato from…
Read MoreTrattoria La Rustica, Ravenna
Trattoria La Rustica Via Massimo d’Azeglio 28 48121 Ravenna +39 0544 218 128 www-trattoria–larustica-it The Bill (Euros) A la carte Antipasti €9.00 – €18.00 | Primi Piatti €9.00 – €14.00 Secondi Piatti €14.00 – €22.00 | Dolci €5.00 – €6.00 The Score Cooking: Starters 8/10 | Meat 2/10 – Average 5/10 Flavour: Starters…
Read MorePorchetta
italian porchetta in a market in la spezia They love their pork here in Italy. The ultimate pork dish surely has to be porchetta. I had heard many enthusing; however, in my ignorance I had thought it was the Italian way with roast pork, just with more herbs. How wrong can you be. In summary…
Read MorePasta I Love Thee. Let Me Count The Ways
During my Royal Mile Tours for guests of the Edinburgh Festival Guides Association in August, I pose a question. How many individual performances were there in festivals in the city in the previous month of August? The answers are always wildly out: the only person who ever got close was a lady who thought she…
Read MoreCa’ de Vèn, Ravenna, Italy
Ca’ de Vèn 24 Via Corrado Ricci, 48121 Ravenna +39 0544 30163 www.cadeven.it The Bill (Euros) A la carte Piadine/Crescioni €1.50 – €7.50 | Antipasti €6.00 – €13.50 Primi Piatti €11.00 – €13.50 | Secondi Piatti €16.50 – €22.50 Dolci €5.00 – €7.00 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 4/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value…
Read MorePeaches and Nectarines in Wine
I’m not sure that we ever get the very best of these glorious fruit at home. The reason is obvious. They are at their very best when just picked ripe off the tree. In that case of course, they have no chance of surviving the journey. Ripen at home is an activity fraught with peril. For…
Read MoreHoliday Homes: Why It’s (Sometimes) Fun To Improvise
Today finds us comfortably ensconced in Ravenna, the eastern town, and sometime capital, of Emilia Romagna. Very happily ensconced, it must be said. L’s researches have found for us a second floor apartment with large balcony, ten minutes from the city centre. While the website pictures will show you the accommodation, I would suggest that…
Read MoreCourgettes – Got A Glut?
I was going to do a cherry recipe today, but the season is nearly over. Courgettes, on the other hand, are growing like Triffids. Here’s a tip if you have an allotment. At planting time, discover what your neighbours are sowing. It makes the bartering at harvest time much simpler. We have a healthy specimen…
Read MoreFrizzante Proseccheria, Edinburgh
Frizzante Proseccheria 95 Lothian Road, Edinburgh EH3 9AW 0131 229 7788 www.frizzanterestaurant.uk The Bill A la carte Starters £5.90 – £11.50 | Mains £14.90 – £27.50 Dolci £2.95 – £10.90 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 3.5/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 17.5/25 It was a very fine day. The last tour…
Read MoreSommelier Watch, Featuring Glen Montgomery of eòrna
This is a new feature. As you know we have interviewed numerous chefs over the years, but this is the first time we’ve turned the spotlight on a sommelier. For many years I was a little suspicious, not to say fearful, of the breed. I have now encountered enough of them to make me realise…
Read More