Posts by Tom Johnston
Wendy Barrie and The Scottish Food Guide
We’ve met Wendy Barrie before in this column. That was in a feature about Slow Food Scotland. Despite it having been in existence since 2002, I have to confess I knew little about her core business, the Scottish Food Guide. This lady has many strings to her bow. So it was back to Aberdour. This…
Read MoreSpanakopita
I think it’s because I didn’t fancy drinking turpentine. Ouzo, raki, that sort of thing. That’s about the only reason I can think of for never having visited Greece. And lots of people tell you bad things about the food. Lukewarm, greasy, salmonella added at no extra cost. All of which sounds as sensible as…
Read MoreRagù Pasta, Edinburgh
Ragù Pasta 92 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 3DF 0131 526 3939 www.ragupasta.co.uk The Bill A la carte Sides £4.00 – £7.50 | Mains £8.00 – £14.00 Desserts £4.50 – £6.00 The Score Cooking 4.5/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 3.5/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 17/25 Is this another good thing arriving from the west? You…
Read MoreDiana Thompson Uncorked
Diana ThompsonPicture by Phil Wilkinson If you’re interested in wine and don’t know the force of nature that is Diana Thompson, you are a disadvantaged person. Fortunately help is at hand. Come to the Assembly Roooms in Edinburgh’s George Street on Saturday 1 June when Diana is running the second annual Edinburgh Uncorked Wine Fair.…
Read MoreThe Citizen, Glasgow
The Citizen 24 St Vincent Place, Glasgow G1 2EU 0141 222 2909 www.thecitizenglasgow.co.uk The Bill A la carte Starters £6.95 – £9.95 | Mains £15.95 – £36.95 Desserts £5.95 – £7.95 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 4/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value 3.5/5 TOTAL 16.5/25 In spite of Humphrey Bogart films, I seriously doubt…
Read MoreSorbets and Granitas
Sorbet In 2024 I hesitate to commend anything whatsoever about Moscow, but during a visit a few years ago, something struck me. When the wife of an important person went out, she was invariably accompanied by a large man with no neck. Given the circumstances which gave rise to the inspiration for my recipe today,…
Read MoreS is for … Sorbet
The recent spell of half decent weather has cheered up the general population – but not nearly as much as it’s brought a smile to the faces of ice cream makers and sellers. Observing the eating of ice cream in the street is very much like watching the growth cycle of the average homo sapiens.…
Read MoreDa Etta, Rome
Da Etta Piazza in Piscinula 42 – 47, 00153 Rome +39 06 581 6249 www.ostepercaso.com/da-etta The Bill (Euros) A la carte Antipasti €12.00 – €24.00 | Pasta €14.00 – €18.00 Secondi €20.00 – €26.00 | Dolci €8.00 – €10.00 The Score Cooking 6/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 19/25…
Read MoreAsparagus Soup
How profligate, I hear you cry. Taking something which is delicate, delicious and downright dear, and turning it into soup? Nay, best beloveds, nay. Imparting culinary knowledge to my bambini has always been a source of pleasure, never more so than when it related to today’s star veg. Having been asked how far down one…
Read MoreA Grand Day Out with the Guild of Food Writers
I suspect we all suffer from impostor syndrome from time to time. In my case I had it in spades a week or so ago, finding myself on a bus with a bevy of beauties, food professionals all. Thanks to the lovely Cat Thomson, journalist and hen keeper extraordinaire I found myself invited on a…
Read MoreHot Smoked Salmon Salad with Beetroot, Grapefruit and Horseradish
I’ve long been a fan of the way the French put together a salade composée. The British style of having a few ingredients laid out on a flat plate always looks sad, and usually tastes that way as well. While the base for today’s offeriing will always be leaves (well dressed of course), you can…
Read MoreThe Old Mill Inn, Pitlochry – Guest Reviewer Miranda Heggie
The Old Mill Inn Mill Lane, Pitlochry, PH16 5BH 01796 474020 www.theoldmillpitlochry.co.uk The Bill A la carte Starters £5.95 – £13.50 | Mains £17.95 – £32.95 Desserts £7.50 – £8.50 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 4/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value 3.5/5 TOTAL 19.5/25 Miranda Heggie I always find meal timings a bit tricky…
Read MoreThe Tasting Menu is Back: Discuss
Back? Did it ever go away? And where did it come from? Maybe it was just in my newspapers of choice (yes, paper ones, and yes, I do know how that dates me) but I’ve been reading a lot about this recently. Stuart Ralston is one of Scotland’s most influential chefs (Aizle, Noto, Tipo and…
Read MoreI Tried To Give You New Ravioli, But I Failed
Overseeing school dinners very many years ago in an unnamed establishment outwith Edinburgh, L asked what the day’s veg was. Ravioli, came the reply. In our enjoyment of pasta in Britain we’ve come a long way since then, but when it comes to the stuffed stuff, we’re still a long way behind the home country. Shop…
Read MoreTom Eats! In Rome
Tom Eats! in Rome For a reviewer, four, I think, is the magic number. Sample any fewer plates and you can’t be sure you’re getting a representative sample. Four folk each having three different courses is ideal, but life just isn’t normally like that. Dinner at Casa Johnston tends to be a one course…
Read MoreChef Watch featuring Darin Campbell of Cromlix, by Dunblane
Chef Watch Darin Campbell Head Chef, Cromlix, by Dunblane How long have you been a chef? I’ve been a chef for nearly 30 years. I started out working in a small local hotel in my home town of Largs. I realised I had a passion and talent for cooking so I moved to Edinburgh and…
Read MoreWhen in Rome, Eat Artichokes
If you’re French and you’re reading this, do you realise how much of a laugh the Italians are having at your expense? My admiration of the cuisine of la belle France knows few bounds except, perhaps, when it comes to today’s star ingredient. We refer not the little tubers which cause extreme flatulence, the so called…
Read MoreLa P’tite Folie, Edinburgh
La P’tite Folie 9 Randolph Place, Edinburgh EH2 1LH 0131 225 8678 www.laptitefolie.co.uk The Bill 2 Courses Set Lunch £19.95 A la carte Starters £6.50 – £14.00 | Mains £16.00 – £29.95 Desserts £7.50 The Score Cooking 6/10 | Service 4/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 19/25 St James Centre – A Planning…
Read MoreWater? Water Fuss!
How long would you like the extended warranty to be for? Like all attempted con tricks, this one was delivered with flair, with a smile and, of course, with absolute confidence (hence the name). If, on the first of June this year, you part with some of your hard earned for a five year warranty…
Read MoreOne, Two, Salsa!
No! Not that sort of salsa! If you think I’m going to be a dance master in April, you little know your man. Even before the titanium hip I discovered that I had been born lacking a sense of rhythm. The delights of dancing the salsa (which, as you know, is a Cuban fusion of…
Read MoreDaika Kanm, Edinburgh
Daika Kanm 3 Johnston Terrace, Edinburgh EH1 2PW 0131 225 1329 www.daika.co.uk The Bill A la carte Starters £8.60 – £10.50 | Mains £17.95 – £22.85 Desserts £6.50 – £8.95 The Score Cooking 4/10 | Service 3/5 Flavour 3/5 | Value 3/5 TOTAL 13/25 A confession. The Johnston family owes an apology or two to…
Read MoreA Decade of Tom’s Food!
March 31 was the tenth anniversary of my retiring from the practice of law. One door closes, a hundred restaurant doors open. It wasn’t quite the plan. People have asked why the Tom’s Food! domain name is www.ormidalels.com. Simple, really. It’s short for Ormidale Licensing Services. Glasgow’s coat of arms features a bird that never…
Read MoreButterflied Leg of Lamb with Home Made Mint Sauce
Well, sod seasonality! I said firmly to the laptop. No, I’m not referring to what we should cook or eat, but to the issues it raises for us scribblers. You might think that Easter would be a gift, with all its food traditions. Yes, but this is the ninth year of Tom Cooks! Fortunately, many of…
Read Morepizzologist, Edinburgh – Guest Reviewer Miranda Heggie
pizzologist 70 Haymarket Terrace, Edinburgh EH12 5LQ 0131 603 0173 www.pizzologist.co.uk The Bill A la carte Starters £4.00 – £12.00 | Mains £7.50 – £12.50 Desserts £2.00 – £8.00 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 4/5 Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 21/25 The winner of the Tom Eats! Be A Restaurant…
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