Chef Watch – Willie McCurrach OBE FIH

Chef Watch Featuring Willie McCurrach OBE FIH, formerly Head of School, City of Glasgow College, Food Technology How long have you been a chef? I have been a chef for a total of 50 years and loved every minute of my career. I started as a student at Aberdeen Technical College and was really impressed…

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Partridge with Wild Mushrooms

We really aim to be seasonal here, and today we hit double top. The partridge season started at the beginning  of September. While it has been a rotten year for grouse, partridge are plentiful. September is also prime time for wild mushrooms. If you forage for your own, you won’t need me to tell you…

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Pepe Nero, Edinburgh

  Pepe Nero 1 – 3 Raeburn Place, Edinburgh EH4 1HU 0131 332 9977 www.pepenerostockbridge.co.uk The Bill Starters £2.95 – £8.95  | Mains £8.50 – £24.50 Pizza £8.95 – £11.50 | Desserts £1.65 – £6.95 The Score Cooking 6/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 19.5/25 Shall we begin with the…

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Musings On Being A Restaurant Reviewer – Seven Years On

I awoke with a start and an itch. Something, I could tell, was beckoning. History, as it transpired, seven years’ worth to be precise. This month marks the seventh anniversary of the first ever Tom Eats! review. It came to pass after I had abandoned any plans to trade under the banner of the then…

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Alison Doody’s Coconut Flapjacks

This is a recipe for those of you with a sweet tooth. It comes courtesy of sister-in-law Alison, whose company we are currently enjoying, the first time in two years. As most of you know, baking, bread excepted, is not really my thing, so I’m forever grateful to the guest contributors such as Alison who…

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The Potted Lobster, Abersoch, North Wales

  The Potted Lobster High Street, Abersoch, Pwllheli, LL53 7DS, North Wales 01758 431432  www.thepottedlobster.co.uk/abersoch/ The Bill Starters £8.00 – £12.00  | Mains £9.00 – £45.00 Desserts £2.50 – £9.00 The Score Cooking 6.5/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 5/5 (Decor 5/5 | Health and Safety 0/5) TOTAL 20/25 I don’t usually…

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Saltimbocca alla Romana

Or, if you want to translate literally, jump in the mouth as the Romans do. You can see why, even on British menus, they stick to the original. I mention it in today’s Tom Eats! so I thought I might include the recipe. It’s incredibly easy to make. The fact that my last attempt wasn’t…

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Rico’s, Edinburgh

  Rico’s 58A North Castle Street, Edinburgh EH2 3LU 0131 332 6750 www.ricoristorante.co.uk The Bill Antipasti £9.00 – £16.00  | Primi Piatti £16.00 – £25.00 Secondi Piatti £18.00 – £32.00 | Dolci £6.50 – £8.50 The Score Cooking 7.5/10 | Service 4/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 20.5/25 Here’s a Q and A…

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Ice Cream

Well, I couldn’t tantalise you with a brief history of the stuff (see Wednesday’s On The Side column) and not give you some to eat, could I? You know by now about the cream allergy, so you’re not going to be getting any of the rich stuff, nor one of these unctuous ones where you start…

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The Raeburn, Edinburgh

  The Raeburn 112 Raeburn Place, Edinburgh EH4 1HG 0131 332 7000 www.theraeburn.com The Bill Starters £6.00 – £8.00  | Mains £11.50 – £28.80  Desserts £5.00 – £8.00 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 3/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 16/25 In life, sadly, there are winners and losers. The good news this…

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I is for Ice and Ice Cream

Well, no prizes for guessing what the I was for. I did think about focussing on ice alone, but doubted you would let me away with it. Ice is defined as a food in the UK food legislation, and should be handled as such. The few times I’ve had a dodgy tummy out east can…

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Crispy Duck Lettuce Wraps With Pickled Carrots

Yesterday was the so called Glorious Twelfth. Depends on your viewpoint, I suppose. Less than wonderful if you’re a grouse, as it’s the start of the shooting season. I came to grouse late in life, and I can certainly see what the fuss is about, but prices are always inflated immediately after twelfth in the…

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Stravaigin, Glasgow

Stravaigin 28 Gibson Street, Glasgow G12 8NX 0141 334 2665  www.stravaigin.co.uk   The Bill Starters £5.50 – £8.00 | Small Plates £6.50 – £14.00 Mains £14.00 – £18.00 | Desserts £3.50 – £8.00 The Score Cooking 7.5/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 21.5/25 Stravaig – To wander; to go about…

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Knives and Knife Skills

  Can you tell your tang from your bolster*? In the aftermath of the Tokyo Games, what is the major difference between Japan and Europe? Read on, and I’ll explain. I am sometimes accused of being blunt – not today. Having suspended publication (but not writing) for a month, I became complacent. Having a lot…

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Two Fine Tomato Dishes

At this time of year, many of you may be enjoying (or suffering) a glut of tomatoes. Here are a couple of recipes. The first is for a soup which is good at any time of year, but has a beautiful summery colour. A word of warning: the tomatoes need to be quite sweet, though…

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Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, London

 Kerridge’s Bar & Grill The Corinthia Hotel 10 Northumberland Avenue, London WC2N 5AE 020 7321 3244   www.kerridgesbarandgrill.co.uk   The Bill Starters £15.50 – £95.00 | Mains £28.50 – £49.50  Desserts £13.50 – £16.50 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 2.5/5 TOTAL 19/25 Proper lush! That seems to be a catchphrase…

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Cranachan

Scotland, we are told, produces the finest soft fruit in the world. We do, do we? Well, not on the basis of the strawberries I’ve had this year. At the beginning of the season the quality  could be forgiven because of the lack of sunshine: no such excuses now, and I still haven’t had any…

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45 Jermyn Street, London

 45 Jermyn Street  St James’s London SW1Y 6DN 020 7205 4545 www.45 Jermyn Street.com The Bill Starters £9.75 – £76.00 | Mains £17.50 – £52.50 | Desserts £4.50 – £14.25 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 5/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 22/25 I’m occasionally (well, very occasionally) asked how I choose places…

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Invisible Ingredients

An invisible ingredient? I hear you repeat in wonder. How can this be? Now, I concede that, out there, there exist people with palettes so refined, that they can detect everything. Some of you may be among them: but you are rare. Alice Waters of the legendary Chez Panisse in California set a challenge to her…

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