Christmas Day Veg

I have bemoaned on many occasions the fact that we Brits are so unimaginative in our veg cookery. Unadorned, often unseasoned, boiled vegetables are not only depressing, they scream of a cook who, quite frankly my dear, doesn’t give a damn. While Christmas Day requires tradition, there’s no reason why old favourites can’t be given…

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Tom’s 3 Fs of Christmas

Annie Grey

Those who know me will be aware that much of my life is centred round three Fs. Food, Football and Books. (Ah, you noticed the flaw in the last part of my tricorn rhetoric. Never mind.) I write a fair bit about food books in this column, so perhaps I can justify that as the…

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Where Will Tom Eats! Pop Up in 2022? – Part One: London

  SARS-CoV-2 (that’s COVID 19 to you) has played havoc for nearly two years now. One of its most insignificant consequences is the impact it’s had on Tom Eats! Writing restaurant reviews avoiding takeaways has been a challenge, though it did give me the opportunity to revive some golden oldies, and it did introduce you…

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Christopher Trotter Cooking With Kale

Continuing the kale theme from Wednesday’s On The Side column, I’m indebted to the Trotters. To Christopher, without whom I would probably have continued to body swerve its mineral rich loveliness, and who has kindly allowed me to reproduce some of his recipes: and to Caroline, for almost all of the photos. (Observant readers will…

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The Food Alphabet: K is for Kale

I know that some friends will be recoiling in horror at the thought of this stuff. Truth be told, cooked without care its coarse bitter leaves are pretty unpalatable, and its reputation as Scottish peasant food hasn’t helped. The original spelling in Scots was kail. It was an important staple, largely because it would grow…

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Michael Greenlaw’s Portuguese Delights: Pork and Clams, and more

I asked readers for some other Christmas recipes. My good friend, celebrated artist Michael Greenlaw, answered the call. The only problem is that as he is wintering in the Algarve, hearty stews and steamed puddings aren’t on his mind. Still these sound like crackers, so that’s Christmassy enough for me. Coincidentally I was thinking about…

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Dusit Thai, Edinburgh

  Dusit Thai 49A Thistle Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DY 0131 220 6846    www.dusit.co.uk The Bill Dusit Banquet £29.50 pp A la carte Appetisers £5.50 – £10.50 | Mains £11.95 – £22.00 The Score Cooking 6.5/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 19.5/25 You are in heaven in Thailand. A masked…

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Chef Watch – Phil White of LeftField, Edinburgh

Chef Watch Featuring Phil White of LeftField, Edinburgh How long have you been a chef? Very long time, Tom. I started when I was 16 at the National Exhibition Centre. It was great. We cooked from 4 people up to 2000. We also got to sneak into the gigs at the arena afterwards. Why did…

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The Bay Tree Hotel, Burford, Oxfordshire

   The Bay Tree Hotel  Sheep Street, Burford, Oxfordshire OX18 4LW  01993 822791    www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk/the-bay-tree-hotel The Bill A la carte Starters £7.50 – £13.50 | Mains £16.00 – £30.00 Puddings £6.50 – £9.00 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5  Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 20.5/25 Stand at the top of the hill before…

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The Best Christmas Pudding Ever – Courtesy of Stephen Harris

Stephen Harris After Stir-up Sunday in this week’s On The Side, what else could I feature today? I am both grateful to, and traumatised by, Stephen Harris of The Sportsman in Kent. For some years I have been making my own Christmas pud, using a recipe which appeared in The Telegraph some years ago. His recipe makes two…

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Stirred by Stir-up Sunday?

For a number of years now I have been making my own Christmas pudding. While I guess my mum did too, at least in the early days, I have no recollection of any great tradition surrounding it, the silver threepenny excepted. I normally get round to it in the latter part of November, but when…

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Tiramisu

Having mentioned tiramisu in Wednesday’s On The Side, it seemed rude to let it pass by today’s column. Sadly, it has become a bit of a cliché. You are unlikely to find many dessert menus in Italian restaurants from which it’s absent. Yet the reason dishes become so ubiquitous is that they sell well. Put…

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The Palmerston, Edinburgh

  The Palmerston Restaurant & Bakery 1 Palmerston Place, Edinburgh EH12 5AF 0131 220 1794    www.thepalmerstonedinburgh.co.uk The Bill Set Lunch (Wednesday  to Friday) 2 courses £16.00 | 3 courses £19.00 A la carte Starters £6.50 – £10.00 | Mains £15.00 – £22.00 Desserts £5.00 – £6.00 The Score Cooking 8.5/10 | Service 5/5 |…

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Well, Here’s Another Nice Mess…

Were you as shocked as I to read of the recent death of Aldo Campeol owner of Le Beccherie in Treviso in northern Italy? Shock at the passing of a 93 year old man? Hardly, but it was the news that he was credited as the father of tiramisu, which had me shaking my head…

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Recipes from Coasts & Waters by Christopher Trotter

In On The Side on Wednesday we featured Coasts & Waters, the latest cook book from the prolific pen of Christopher Trotter. Many thanks to Christopher for permission to reproduce these two excerpts. The first is an interesting fish curry; the second is a fine explanation of a skill which many have struggled to master,…

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The Crusoe, Lower Largo, Fife

  The Crusoe 2 Main Street, Lower Largo, by Leven, Fife KY8 6BT 01333 406775 The Bill Nibbles (excluding oysters) £4.00 – £5.50 | Starters £5.50 – £10.00 Mains £14.00 – £27.50 | Desserts £1.50 – £7.50 The Score Cooking 6.5/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 19.5/25 The Kingdom of…

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An Ignoramus Does Sourdough

Begin with your Banneton Now, whatever you do, don’t misread the title. It does not say An Idiot’s Guide To Sourdough. Such articles with their condescending titles are produced by experts who have decided to descend from Mount Olympus to impart a little wisdom to mere mortals such as you and me. Armed with their erudition, we will…

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Land, Birmingham – Guest Reviewer Miranda Heggie

  Land 30 Great Western Arcade, Colmore Row, Birmingham B2 5HU 0121 236 2313   www.land.restaurant The Bill 4 courses £30 | 6 courses £39 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 4/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 21/25 When thinking of Birmingham’s architecture, you’d be forgiven for conjuring up a mental image of sprawling…

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Chef Watch – Christopher Trotter, Fife’s Food Ambassador

Chef Watch Featuring Christopher Trotter, Fife’s Food Ambassador How long have you been a chef? More years than I care to remember!  My hotel management training began at the Savoy in London in 1977. The one year I was meant to spend in the kitchens turned into three. It was the most amazing experience. Why…

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Knockendarroch Hotel & Restaurant, Pitlochry

  Knockendarroch Hotel & Restaurant Higher Oakfield, Pitlochry, Perthshire PH16 5HT 01796 473473  www.knockendarroch.co.uk The Bill Dinner Only: 3 courses £49.00 The Score Cooking 7.5/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 20.5/25 The power of the staycation. For those who don’t now it, Pitlochry is a pretty Scottish village just off…

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Chipotle and The World’s Greatest Chile Con Carne

A bit like Lord Reith’s BBC my mission has been both to entertain and to educate. The problem is that you were the ones who were intended to be educated, not me. Mind you, I consider my weekly Italian lesson a failure if my teacher hasn’t learned something new: similarly, the amount of knowledge I’ve…

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The Food Producers: Cameron Bell of The Smiddy, Texas BBQ Experts

Cameron Bell It’s midday on a sunny Sunday, and I’m here for my lesson at The Smiddy Night School in Powderhall. Now I know what you’re thinking. This is just one example of the flexibility and adaptability of the amazing business run by Cameron Bell, wife Emma Roeder and their team from converted blacksmith’s premises.…

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Jalapeño and Chipotle

As I said on Wednesday, you can do anything (well, anything that’s legal, decent, truthful and honest – this column has standards) with jalapeños that you could do with most other chillies. You’ll all have your own favourites, so let’s travel a little. Firstly, snacking in the States. Some years ago my eldest offspring was…

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