Review of the Year 2021 Part 2: 1 – 14

Dean Banks

It's been a long year. This is article 139. Trust me on two things. Firstly, this is definitely the last in 2021; and secondly there won't be nearly so many next year. I really really do plan to get out more. It must be said, however, that we ate out to very good effect this year, in a diverse range of places.

Top of the list is the grandest of them all. I failed to understand why the powers that be who run Edinburgh's Waldorf Astoria hotel - the one that will forever be The Caley to locals - closed The Pompadour in the first place, but they have to take credit for luring Dean Banks to relaunch it.

Lloyd Morse & James Snowden

By way of contrast, second place went to a former bank. Nothing unusual in that, of course, but the new kid on the block, The Palmerston, is a rare beast. The menu is nothing startling: it contains many dishes with which you are familiar. Some of them you may well make at home. But chef Lloyd Morse can take these and, apparently effortlessly, turn them into something many times better than you have eaten before. I haven't encountered that trick since the days of Gary Rhodes.

And finally to the podium, Aurora. You could pass without a second glance. If it looks like a greasy spoon in Leith, that's because it was, not that long ago.

Kamil Witek

From this tiny space Kamil Witek produces imaginative, stunning food. Messrs Banks, Morse and Witek, take a bow.

*** Signifies Guest Reviewer***

Restaurant

Score

Comments

Dean Banks at The Pompadour, Edinburgh

24

The hard working Masterchef: The Professionals finalist has reopened The Pompadour at The Caledonian Hotel, Edinburgh’s prettiest dining space. https://bit.ly/2UX4ldr

The Palmerston, Edinburgh

23.5

Chef Lloyd Morse and front of house partner James Snowden achieve miracles by producing dishes that you know and may have made at home – just ten times better.https://bit.ly/3c61u7h

Aurora modern eatery, Edinbugh

23

Kamil Witek and team produce astonishing and imaginative food in a tiny space in Leith. https://bit.ly/2TFpQPo

45 Jermyn Street, London

22

Swish flagship restaurant owned and run by Fortnum & Mason. Very good indeed. https://bit.ly/3rH9Idd

Sholeh Persian Restaurant, Glasgow

21.5

An oasis in an area of Glasgow which isn’t the best. Iranian chef Vahid and his lovely wife Azar dispense fabulous Persian grub. https://bit.ly/30ad3Yw

Stravaigin, Glasgow

21.5

Been here for a very long time. Eat here and you’ll understand why. https://bit.ly/2XrmPEj

LeftField, Edinburgh

21.5

Thanks to Craig and Vikki Wood for alerting me to this out of the way wee place on Bruntsfield Links. Phil White cooks up a storm and his partner and their daughters are front of house. https://bit.ly/3xQjewM

Rajpoot Indian Restaurant, Inverurie

21.5

A very ordinary looking High Street Indian serving a great combination of good quality curry standards and local Scottish produce. https://bit.ly/2U33sj4

Land, Birmingham***

21

Another guest contribution from Miranda Heggie. A vegan place (she’s not) but it sounds stunning. https://bit.ly/3EIzsLF

The Bay Tree, Burford 20.5 Even by Cotswolds standards, Burford is lovely. The Bay Tree and its food live up to them. https://bit.ly/30FsZ5M

Knockendarroch Hotel, Pitlochry

20.5

Charming country house hotel on a hill overlooking the town. The Pitlochry Festival Theatre was founded in the grounds. https://bit.ly/3jqVvhC

Rico's Edinburgh

20.5

Upmarket Italian by Stefano Pieraccini. Good food – hope the bread’s improved. https://bit.ly/3BhIWvl

Fishers in The City, Edinburgh

20.5

Probably the Johnstons’ most frequented restaurant in the town. Superlative fish and chips. Great fish curries, and much, much more. https://bit.ly/2THL8fj

Dine Murrayfield, Edinburgh

20.5

Wonderful local bistro, the little sister to Dine above the Traverse Theatre. Thank you, Stuart Muir and Paul Brennan, for opening on my doorstep. https://bit.ly/3sRu1oy

 

2 Comments

  1. Fiona Garwood on 23rd December 2021 at 8:54 pm

    Thanks Tom. We look forward to sampling The Palmerston. Left Field was a great find.

    • Tom Johnston on 24th December 2021 at 10:51 am

      If you liked LeftField, you’ll certainly like The Palmerston too. Both have a similar ability to take the familiar and elevate it to terrific heights. Merry Christmas from Ormidale (Upper).

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