Posts by Tom Johnston
Ubiquitous Chip
18 Eyre Place, Edinburgh EH3 5EP 0131 556 0006 www.newchapterestaurant.co.uk The Bill Set Lunch 2 courses: £16.95 | 3 courses: £21.95 Set Dinner (Mon – Thu 1730 – 1830) 2 courses: £17.95 | 3 courses: £22.95 A la Carte Starters: £8.50 – £14.00 | Mains: £18.50 – £23.00 | Desserts: £5.50 – £7.95 The Score…
Read MorePrawns, Langoustines – What’s In A Name?
What we’re looking at today is the wonderful Nephrops norvegicus. I first encountered these in Wester Ross in the late 1960s when they were known to fishermen and consumers alike as prawns. Once we started to be inundated with imports from all over, the naming became confusing. The term Dublin Bay prawns was common –…
Read More(Not) Bouillabaisse – But A Good Fish Soup
So you want to cook bouillabaisse? Well, you can’t. Says who? Says The Marseillle Bouillabaisse Charter, issued in 1980 by a group of restaurateurs in the city. The stated objective is to specify the elements of a good quality Bouillabaisse, with the goal to make this local dish better known among customers, while at the…
Read MoreIn Memory of Jim Kendall
Yesterday, two unthinkable things happened. Firstly, I discovered that L and I both had a completely empty calendar. Ladies and gentlemen, in the month of August, this is something which does not happen. With a few mouse clicks I soon remedied that. Three Fringe shows and a bite of dinner (The Outsider on George IV…
Read MoreNoto
47A Thistle Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DY 0131 241 8518 www.notoedinburgh.co.uk The Bill Plates: £6.00 – £16.00 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 22/25 This eagerly awaited opening sees Stuart Ralston of Aizle fame with his first restaurant in the city centre. I have never visited Aizle,…
Read MoreRustom Restaurant
2 Grosvenor Street, Edinburgh EH12 5BT 0131 337 7920 www.rustomrestaurant.co.uk The Bill Starters: £2.95 – £6.95 | Mains: £8.95 – £25.95 | Desserts: £4.00 – £4.95 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 21/25 What’s in a name? Since I’ve started checking out the meanings of the…
Read MoreFennel
I am taking my first faltering steps to learn the Czech language. People tell me it’s difficult, but my guess is that learning English pronunciations must be a nightmare. Take for example the words, therefore, plant, pack, female pig: so, sew, stow, but sow. Or, things in a line, type of deer, propel a boat,…
Read MoreBertie’s Proper Fish and Chips
Eusebi Deli 152 Park Road, Glasgow, G2 9HB 0141 648 9999 www.eusebideli.com The Bill Starters: £4.00 – £12.00 | Mains: £12.50 – £24.00 | Desserts: Didn’t get there The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 23/25 A long, long time ago, in a place very close to here,…
Read MoreVietnam – Spicy Chicken and Carrot Salad, and Sweet Chilli Sauce
Vietnamese Chicken and Carrot Salad A few weeks ago, we looked at warm salads. At that time I commended the cuisines of the east for the vibrancy of their salads. Now that we are at last getting a bit of heat, this is a good time to venture there. This one is adapted from a…
Read MoreLemons
Taken for granted by many whose only use for it is to garnish a G & T, the lemon is an underrated kitchen essential. A cooking tool, to prevent your butter browning further when frying fish or chicken; a fundamental in most Middle Eastern recipes; an invisible flavour enhancer to add that little extra zing…
Read MoreMerienda
30 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh EH3 6TP 0131 220 2020 www.eat-merienda.com The Bill Staples: £3.50 – £9.50 | Fields & Gardens/Farms & Pastures/Rivers & Seas: £5.00 – £8.50 Sweetness: £7.00 The Score Cooking 9/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 24/25 In the food writer’s losing battle against the…
Read MoreDafne Restaurant
Grand Hotel Aminta, Via Nastro Verde, 23 , 80067, Sorrento, Italy The Bill (Euros) Dinner Only Tasting Menu 4 courses: 140€ A la Carte Antipasti and Pasta: 8€ – 41€ | Mains: 16€ – 34€ | Desserts: 10€ – 14€ The Score Cooking 3.5/10 | Service 2/5 | Flavour 2/5 | Value 1/5 TOTAL 8.5/25…
Read MoreL’Abate and other places in Sorrento
L’Abate Piazza San Antonino 24, 80067, Sorrento +39 081 807 2304 www.labatesorrento.it The Bill (Euros) Starters/Pasta: 10€ – 18 € | Mains: 12€ – 50 € | Desserts 7€ – 10€ The Score Cooking 6.5/10 | Service 4/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 18.5/25 A few folk have picked up on last week’s car…
Read MoreAubergine Parmigiana – An Impostor?
Carry out a survey for the best known Italian cheese, and what would the results be? Gorgonzola? Less popular than it once was. (I remember my Dad telling me about this blue cheese that was so strong it used to walk across the plate. Perhaps, however, he was referring to Danish Blue, and, yes, I…
Read MoreScotts, Troon & South Queensferry
Scotts Bar & Restaurant, Port Edgar Marina, Shore Road, South Queensferry EH30 9SQ 0131 370 8166 www.scotts-southqueensferry.co.uk ****************************************************** Scotts at Troon Yacht Haven Troon Yacht Haven, Harbour Road, Troon KA10 6DJ 01292 315315 www.scotts-troon.co.uk The Bill (South Queensferry) Starters: £5.00 – £10.95 | Mains: £10.95- £47.50 | Desserts: £6.45 – £7.95 The Bill (Troon) Starters:…
Read MoreWarm Salads
We’re really not great at salads here in Scotland. Yes, we now grow plenty of the ingredients, but our way of assembling them seldom gets the taste buds going. From the Far East, on the other hand, there are wonders to be had, served with vibrant zingy dressings. But you have to source the appropriate…
Read MoreBreaded, Battered and Bewildered Part 2
After last week’s column, we had a minor domestic. The current Mrs Johnston took me to task for omitting one of her more celebrated oeuvres (and there are many), to wit her famous blinis. I contemplated including them today, but we are battered out. The breadcrumb is the thing. And here I shall pause for…
Read MoreThe Cellar
24 East Green, Anstruther, Fife KY10 3AA 01333 310378 www.thecellaranstruther.co.uk The Bill Set Menus Lunch (5 courses): £40.00 | Dinner (8 courses) : £70.00 The Score Cooking 8.5/10 | Service 4/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 22/25 I DO like to be beside the seaside: if I am to be there,…
Read MoreBreaded, Battered and Bewildered Part 1
I can’t remember how the idea of an article on breadcrumbs came to mind. In the interim, I glanced at a pub lunch menu, which proudly offered diners the choice of having their fish either battered or breaded. What a nation of sophisticates we have become. So, taking things in that order, let’s start with…
Read MoreCauliflower Part 3 – Hot and Spicy
As nearly one third of the world’s cauliflowers are grown in India, it is no surprise to find it featuring in so many curry dishes. Perhaps the best known is Aloo Gobi, the hearty mixture of cauliflower and potato. Recipes abound: I offer my version, cherry picked from others. Don’t worry too much about your…
Read MoreMono
85 South Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1HN 0131 466 4726 www.monorestaurant.co.uk The Bill Tasting Menu 5 courses: £50.00 | 7 courses: £70.00 Vegetarian Tasting Menu 5 courses: £45.00 A la Carte Starters: £11.00 – £12.00 | Mains: £20.00 – £27.00 | Desserts: £10.00 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value…
Read MoreHawksmoor Edinburgh
23 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA 0131 526 4790 www.thehawksmoor.com/locations/edinburgh The Bill Express Menu (Mon – Sat 1200 – 1800 and after 2130) 2 courses; £25.00 | 3 courses £28.00 A la Carte Starters: £7.50 – £18.00 | Mains: £14.00 – £34.00 | Desserts: £7.50 – £9.50 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 4.5/5…
Read MoreMason Belles Kitchen
52 High Street, Linlithgow, West Lothian EH49 7AE 01506 843867 www.masonbelleskitchen.uk/ The Bill A la Carte Starters: £4.75 – £7.25 | Mains: (excluding steaks) £9.00 – £16.95 | Desserts: £4.95 – £6.25 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 18/25 This is an accidental review, proof that…
Read MoreCauliflower Part 2 – Steaks and Braises
I wrote last week of the incredulity of hearing of a dish entitled Cauliflower Steak. Far from being an oddity these days, it has become an important part of the vegetarian cook’s repertoire. I’ve done a bit of research and suggested a couple of ways of doing this, one oven baked, the other started in…
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