Ubiquitous Chip

Ubiquitous Chip

18 Eyre Place, Edinburgh EH3 5EP 0131 556 0006   www.newchapterestaurant.co.uk The Bill Set Lunch 2 courses: £16.95 | 3 courses: £21.95 Set Dinner (Mon – Thu 1730 – 1830) 2 courses: £17.95 | 3 courses: £22.95 A la Carte Starters: £8.50 – £14.00 | Mains: £18.50 – £23.00 | Desserts: £5.50 – £7.95 The Score…

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Prawns, Langoustines – What’s In A Name?

Langoustines

What we’re looking at today is the wonderful Nephrops norvegicus. I first encountered these in Wester Ross in the late 1960s when they were known to fishermen and consumers alike as prawns. Once we started to be inundated with imports from all over, the naming became confusing. The term Dublin Bay prawns was common –…

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(Not) Bouillabaisse – But A Good Fish Soup

Bouillabaisse

So you want to cook bouillabaisse? Well, you can’t. Says who? Says The Marseillle Bouillabaisse Charter, issued in 1980 by a group of restaurateurs in the city. The stated objective is to specify the elements of a good quality Bouillabaisse, with the goal to make this local dish better known among customers, while at the…

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In Memory of Jim Kendall

Yesterday, two unthinkable things happened. Firstly, I discovered that L and I both had a completely empty calendar. Ladies and gentlemen, in the month of August, this is something which does not happen. With a few mouse clicks I soon remedied that. Three Fringe shows and a bite of dinner (The Outsider on George IV…

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Noto

Noto

47A Thistle Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DY 0131 241 8518    www.notoedinburgh.co.uk The Bill Plates: £6.00 – £16.00 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 22/25   This eagerly awaited opening sees Stuart Ralston of Aizle fame with his first restaurant in the city centre. I have never visited Aizle,…

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Rustom Restaurant

Rustom

2 Grosvenor Street, Edinburgh EH12 5BT 0131 337 7920   www.rustomrestaurant.co.uk The Bill Starters: £2.95 – £6.95 | Mains: £8.95 – £25.95 | Desserts: £4.00 – £4.95 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 21/25   What’s in a name? Since I’ve started checking out the meanings of the…

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Fennel

Fennel

I am taking my first faltering steps to learn the Czech language. People tell me it’s difficult, but my guess is that learning English pronunciations must be a nightmare.  Take for example the words, therefore, plant, pack, female pig: so, sew, stow, but sow. Or, things in a line, type of deer, propel a boat,…

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Bertie’s Proper Fish and Chips

Berties Proper Fish & Chips

Eusebi Deli 152 Park Road, Glasgow, G2 9HB 0141 648 9999  www.eusebideli.com The Bill Starters: £4.00 – £12.00 | Mains: £12.50 – £24.00 | Desserts: Didn’t get there The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 23/25 A long, long time ago, in a place very close to here,…

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Lemons

Amalfi Lemons

Taken for granted by many whose only use for it is to garnish a G & T, the lemon is an underrated kitchen essential. A cooking tool, to prevent your butter browning further when frying fish or chicken; a fundamental in most Middle Eastern recipes; an invisible flavour enhancer to add that little extra zing…

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Merienda

30 North West Circus Place, Edinburgh EH3 6TP 0131 220 2020   www.eat-merienda.com The Bill Staples: £3.50 – £9.50 | Fields & Gardens/Farms & Pastures/Rivers & Seas: £5.00 – £8.50  Sweetness: £7.00 The Score Cooking 9/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 24/25   In the food writer’s losing battle against the…

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Dafne Restaurant

Grand Hotel Aminta, Via Nastro Verde, 23 , 80067, Sorrento, Italy The Bill (Euros) Dinner Only Tasting Menu  4 courses: 140€ A la Carte Antipasti and Pasta: 8€ – 41€ | Mains: 16€ – 34€ | Desserts: 10€ – 14€ The Score Cooking 3.5/10 | Service 2/5 | Flavour 2/5 | Value 1/5 TOTAL 8.5/25…

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L’Abate and other places in Sorrento

Sorrento

L’Abate Piazza San Antonino 24, 80067, Sorrento +39 081 807 2304  www.labatesorrento.it The Bill (Euros) Starters/Pasta: 10€ – 18 € |  Mains: 12€ – 50 € | Desserts 7€ – 10€ The Score Cooking 6.5/10 | Service 4/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 18.5/25 A few folk have picked up on last week’s car…

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Aubergine Parmigiana – An Impostor?

Carry out a survey for the best known Italian cheese, and what would the results be? Gorgonzola? Less popular than it once was. (I remember my Dad telling me about this blue cheese that was so strong it used to walk across the plate. Perhaps, however, he was referring to Danish Blue, and, yes, I…

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Scotts, Troon & South Queensferry

Scotts Troon

Scotts Bar & Restaurant, Port Edgar Marina, Shore Road, South Queensferry EH30 9SQ 0131 370 8166  www.scotts-southqueensferry.co.uk ****************************************************** Scotts at Troon Yacht Haven Troon Yacht Haven, Harbour Road, Troon KA10 6DJ 01292 315315 www.scotts-troon.co.uk The Bill (South Queensferry) Starters: £5.00 – £10.95 | Mains: £10.95- £47.50 | Desserts: £6.45 – £7.95 The Bill (Troon) Starters:…

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Warm Salads

Warm pigeon salad

We’re really not great at salads here in Scotland. Yes, we now grow plenty of the ingredients, but our way of assembling them seldom gets the taste buds going. From the Far East, on the other hand, there are wonders to be had, served with vibrant zingy dressings. But you have to source the appropriate…

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Breaded, Battered and Bewildered Part 2

Chicken Schnitzel

After last week’s column, we had a minor domestic. The current Mrs Johnston took me to task for omitting one of her more celebrated oeuvres (and there are many), to wit her famous blinis. I contemplated including them today, but we are battered out. The breadcrumb is the thing. And here I shall pause for…

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The Cellar

The Cellar

24 East Green, Anstruther, Fife KY10 3AA   01333 310378  www.thecellaranstruther.co.uk The Bill Set Menus Lunch (5 courses): £40.00 | Dinner (8 courses) : £70.00 The Score Cooking 8.5/10 | Service 4/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 22/25   I DO like to be beside the seaside: if I am to be there,…

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Breaded, Battered and Bewildered Part 1

Yorkshire Pudding

I can’t remember how the idea of an article on breadcrumbs came to mind. In the interim, I glanced at a pub lunch menu, which proudly offered diners the choice of having their fish either battered or breaded. What a nation of sophisticates we have become. So, taking things in that order, let’s start with…

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Cauliflower Part 3 – Hot and Spicy

Aloo Gobi

As nearly one third of the world’s cauliflowers are grown in India, it is no surprise to find it featuring in so many curry dishes. Perhaps the best known is Aloo Gobi, the hearty mixture of cauliflower and potato. Recipes abound: I offer my version, cherry picked from others. Don’t worry too much about your…

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Mono

Mono

85 South Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1HN   0131 466 4726  www.monorestaurant.co.uk The Bill Tasting Menu 5 courses: £50.00 | 7 courses: £70.00 Vegetarian Tasting Menu 5 courses: £45.00 A la Carte Starters: £11.00 – £12.00 | Mains: £20.00 – £27.00 | Desserts: £10.00 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4.5/5 | Value…

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Hawksmoor Edinburgh

23 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA 0131 526 4790  www.thehawksmoor.com/locations/edinburgh The Bill Express Menu (Mon – Sat 1200 – 1800 and after 2130) 2 courses; £25.00 | 3 courses £28.00 A la Carte Starters: £7.50 – £18.00 | Mains: £14.00 – £34.00 |  Desserts: £7.50 – £9.50 The Score Cooking 7/10 | Service 4.5/5…

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Mason Belles Kitchen

Mason Belles

52 High Street, Linlithgow, West Lothian EH49 7AE 01506 843867 www.masonbelleskitchen.uk/ The Bill A la Carte Starters: £4.75 – £7.25 | Mains: (excluding steaks)  £9.00 – £16.95 | Desserts: £4.95 – £6.25 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 4.5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 18/25   This is an accidental review, proof that…

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Cauliflower Part 2 – Steaks and Braises

Cauliflower Steak

I wrote last week of the incredulity of hearing of a dish entitled Cauliflower Steak. Far from being an oddity these days, it has become an important part of the vegetarian cook’s repertoire. I’ve done a bit of research and suggested a couple of ways of doing this, one oven baked, the other started in…

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