Posts by Tom Johnston
Grand Marnier Soufflé
This blog is posted for Valentine’s Day. Making a romantic dinner? A light last course is always to be recommended, You also want something that shows you’ve made an effort. Soufflés aren’t as frightening as you might think, once you’ve made one or two. With a larger unruly dinner party, the timing can be an…
Read MoreCafe Royal Oyster Bar
19 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA 0131 556 1884 www.belhavenpubs.co.uk/pubs/midlothian/cafe-royal-circle-bar The Bill A la Carte Oysters(6): £12.00 – £15.00 | Starters: £6.00 – £12.00 Mains: £13.00 – £35.00* | Desserts: £6.00 – £7.00 * Lobster is market price, probably higher The Score Cooking 2.5/10 | Service 3/5 | Flavour 2/5 | Value 2/5 TOTAL…
Read MoreIs Chef In? Does It Matter Who Cooked The Food?
When a chef has acquired a degree of celebrity, people’s attitudes seem to change. One of the most common questions posed to waiting staff is whether the great one is on the premises or whether he personally prepared that terrine/fish/panna cotta. When the answer is in the negative, this often results in hurt feelings. In…
Read MoreLamb Shoulder with Onions, Leek and Potatoes
Sometimes I think that in a previous life I must have been a French housewife. Or have I just spent too long reading and watching Nigel Slater? When food shopping there are times, especially if you have planned a dinner or other event, when you know exactly what you want to buy, and precisely what…
Read MoreTwo Fat Ladies in the City
118A Blythswood Street, Glasgow G2 4EG 0141 847 0088 www.https://twofatladiesrestaurant.com/citycentre The Bill Table D’Hote Lunch 2 courses; £16.00 | 3 courses £19.00 Table D’Hote Dinner 2 courses; £18.00 | 3 courses £21.00 A la Carte Starters: £5.00 – £11.00 | Mains: £16.00 – £22.50 | Desserts: £6.50 – £8.50 The Score Cooking 7/10 |…
Read MoreVietnamese Banh Mi
At the end of this, you are going to look in incredulity and say, all this column just about a sandwich? Well yes, but please bear with me. Not just any old sandwich but one that the late Anthony Bourdain, no less, declared the best ever. Once you’ve embarked on a food tour in Vietnam,…
Read MoreDuong’s, Ho Chi Minh City
Duong’s Restaurant Saigon & Cooking Class 27 Dong Du Street, Ben Nghe Ward, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam www.duongrestaurant.com The Bill (£1 = 30,000 Vietnamese Dong) Set Menus: £15.00 – £36.50; A la carte Starters £3.50 – £13.00; Mains £9.00 – £25.00; Desserts £4.00 – £5.00 The Score Food 5/10; Service 2/5; Flavour 4/5; Value…
Read MoreChar Siu Pork – I don’t think so
For reasons that will become clear next week, I acquired a sudden urge to cook the dish which we know as Char Siu. The more I considered it, the less likely the name seemed to be. Hands up anyone who has never done a bad impression of a Chinese accent. Really? I don’t know whether…
Read MoreThe Marshall Trewin House of Fun
The Marshall Trewin House of Fun Somewhere in Norfolk Reservations: Strictly By Invitation Only Guest Reviewer Ross Marshall The Bill Incredibly cheap The Score Cooking 8/10* | Service 2/5** | Flavour 6/5*** | Value 5/5**** TOTAL 21/25 It’s Friday and Tom’s oxtail recipe has just dropped into my phone. Looks interesting – though, clearly, it’s…
Read MoreSprouts Ten Ways
Now, hands up those who eat Brussels Sprouts on any day other than December 25? And keep your hands up if you enjoy them. My hand is in the air twice. It’s probably appropriate that I’m writing this with an election on the way, one which has opinions as polarised over politics as they are…
Read MoreSarah Mellersh’s Apple Strudel
I was looking for something festive. And, about to head to Prague to visit grandson, something with a European twist. Then I discovered that today’s feast is a favourite of close friend PM. And that his granddaughter, Miss Charlotte, made it for him at the age of six. So there’s no excuse for the rest…
Read MorePear and Rosemary Tarte Tatin
As we all know, the brain is a mighty curious thing. If you doubt this, just consider the latest dream you can recall, and ask yourself, where on earth did that come from? And where, you should all ask, do these recipe ideas come from, week on week? Four years or so ago, when this…
Read MoreSussex Pond Puddiing
Sussex Pond Pudding It’s coming into pudding season. My own Christmas pud was made a couple of weeks ago. The Sunday morning routine has had to be altered slightly to feed it a little brandy and sherry. We have been making our own for a few years now, a recipe by Stephen Harris of The…
Read MoreEusebi Deli, Glasgow
Eusebi Deli 152 Park Road, Glasgow, G2 9HB 0141 648 9999 www.eusebideli.com The Bill Starters: £4.00 – £12.00 | Mains: £12.50 – £24.00 | Desserts: Didn’t get there The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 23/25 A long, long time ago, in a place very close to here,…
Read MoreWhite Horse Seafood & Oyster Bar
White Horse Seafood & Oyster Bar 266 Canongate, Edinburgh EH8 8AA 0131 629 5300 https://www.whitehorseoysterbar.co.uk The Bill Small Plates – 9.00 – £14.00 | Whole Fish (Daily Selection) – £Market Price | Seafood Platters (for two) – £65.00 – £95.00 | Desserts – £4.50 – £7.50 The Score Cooking 6/10 | Service 4/5 | Flavour…
Read MoreVietnam House
3 Grove Street, Edinburgh, EH3 8AF 0131 228 3383 www.vietnamhouserestaurant.co.uk The Bill Starters: £6.25 – £7.95 | Mains: £10.50 – £14.50 | Desserts: £3.99 The Score Cooking 5.5/10 | Service 5/5 | Flavour 4/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 19.5/25 Picture yourself, if you will, back in the days of the Edinburgh Enlightenment. Now I am…
Read MorePartridge with Mushrooms and Marsala Sauce
Like summer’s lease, the game season hath all too short a date. Enjoy it while ye may. Those with longer memories may recall that I did a partridge recipe a couple of years ago. I cooked the legs and crown separately. I was very kindly gifted a brace the other day, and decided to roast…
Read MorePheasant with Calvados Cream
For quite a long while I was ambivalent about pheasant. Daft though this sounds, it took me a long while to cotton on to the fact that I was horribly overcooking it. There was no family tradition of eating game, never mind cooking it, so I had to reply on recipes, which generally let me…
Read MorePheasant Crumble – By Royal Appointment
Every year I bang on about the joys of autumn cookery, so why should this one be any different? It’s the right time of year for long slow cooking; root veg come into their own, as do apples and pears. But the thing that makes autumn stand out for me is the availability of game.…
Read MoreBaklava with Pistachios and Walnuts
For the last few weeks we have been wandering through the Middle East. Last week we sweetened up with a honey cake. I had thought at that time of including baklava, that tooth achingly sweet confection, which comes from…? Larousse Gastronomique describes it as a Middle Eastern creation: it seems to have been present throughout…
Read MoreA Taste of Honey – Bermondsey Bees and Honey Loaf
Whisper it, but I’ve never, up until now that is, been a great fan of honey. It just tastes, well, sweet. At my advanced age it is just wonderful to be able to stumble on new, exciting food experiences. I wrote the other week about attending Sudi Pigott’s food writing course in Bermondsey. That took…
Read MoreLe Plongeoir by Donnie Marshall
60 Boulevard Franck Pilatte, 06300 Nice, France +334 93 26 53 02 www.leplongeoir.com The Bill (Euros) Set Lunch (Not weekends or public holidays) 2 courses 25€ | 3 courses 35€ A la carte Starters: 19€ – 26€ | Mains: 31€ – 37€ | Desserts: 12.50€ The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 2/5 | Flavour 2/5…
Read MoreMichael’s Grill & Seafood Place
15 – 19 Jeffrey Street, Edinburgh EH1 1 DR 0131 557 2635 www.michaelsteak.co.uk The Bill Lunch menu (Monday to Friday) 3 courses £11.80 A la carte Starters: £6.95 – £13.50 | Mains: £14.95 – £32.00 | Desserts: £4.00 – £8.00 The Score Cooking 4/10 | Service 2/5 | Flavour 2/5 | Value 2.5/5 TOTAL 10.5/25…
Read MoreMiddle Eastern Breads – Pitta and Taboon
Last week we looked at a couple of walnut based sauces of Middle Eastern origin. Although the tahini was used to dress a carrot salad, it could easily be used as a dip. That needs something to spread it on. In a horrible culture clash we are as likely as not to serve such dips…
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