I’ve been making this for years, generally none too well. Today, by accident, I made one of the best ever.
While all pasta sauce has to be big enough to flavour a lot of carbohydrate, puttanesca is huge. Why so? Ah, how to explain without offending the sensibilities of your maiden aunts, should they chance upon this post? Puttana is Italian for prostitute. This dish originated in Naples, more specifically in dockside cafes where working girls would take their ease after a hard night’s work. Certain things are distasteful; if things leave a bad taste in a mouth, strong flavours can take it away. That’s what this dish is about. If it’s not blowing your socks off, it’s missing the point.
Traditionally the final ingredient would be sliced black olives. I don’t use them in my version, as most of those we get here are unpleasantly bitter, but I’ve included them in the recipe. While you can tone down the chilli to your taste, a kick of sorts is essential. Traditionally served with spaghetti (the classic Neapolitan pasta – that’s why it’s held in some disdain up north), but use whatever you fancy. 50g dry per person as a starter, 80g for a main.
For the sauce – serves 2 as a main course, 4 as a starter
2 small onions, very finely diced; 2 cloves garlic, crushed; 1 chilli, finely chopped (I left the seeds in – your choice); big squirt of tomato puree; 4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped; 400 ml tin tomatoes or passata; splash of red wine (optional); 2 – 3 tsp capers (in brine); coarsely chopped black olives (optional); black pepper; olive oil.
Gently fry the onions, garlic and chill in oil. Add some of the oil from the anchovy container. Cook until the onions are transparent. Stir in the tomato puree and cook for a minute. Pour in the tomatoes, red wine if using, and add the anchovies. Simmer for a while until the onions are almost done. I like a little bite. Add 2 – 3 tsp capers and cook for another minute or two. A grating or two of pepper is good, then check the seasoning. If you want more heat chuck in some dried chilli flakes. If you want to use the olives add them at the very last minute and stir in to warm.
Italians always add the pasta to the sauce and heat up. I am never accurate enough with my sauce to pasta ratios to do that.