Pesto and Variations

With a forthcoming trip to Genoa and a burgeoning basil plant, pesto seemed an appropriate candidate for Tom Cooks! this week. Looking at the city's many attractions, I note that there is a plethora of classes are available to teach you how to make this sauce which the Genoese call their own.

Two things won't be happening. Firstly I won't be attending any of their workshops as making pesto is unbelievably simple, especially if you commit the heresy of using a blender instead of spending hours over a pestle. (Pesto = pestle, get it?) Secondly I won't be doing pasta and pesto today, because we did it last year. Click here for the recipe. Instead, a couple of variations. Firstly an excellent way to stuff a chicken breast and keep it moist: and secondly, a Sicilian variation on pesto which I've only just discovered, pesto alla Trapanese.

Pesto Stuffed Chicken Breasts

There are a couple of ways you can stuff a chicken breast. You can beat it flat and wrap the meat round your stuffing. This works very well with a filling of, say haggis or black pudding, but isn't great with a liquid, or soon to be liquid stuffing, like garlic butter or pesto.

For this, take a decent sized chicken breast, and remove the thinner section, known as the faux filet. You'll need a section of that to act as a plug. Make some pesto as per last year's recipe.  Your ingredients for the classic version are basil, pine nuts, pecorino and/or Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and salt.

With a thin sharp knife make a pocket in the chicken breast, being careful not to puncture it. Insert as much pesto as you can. Chefs doing dozens would use a piping bag. I use a teaspoon and a finger. Firmly plug the hole with a piece of the faux filet.

To cook, two options. Wrap the breast with parma ham or thin pancetta. You can use bacon, but stretch it with the back of a knife to make each rasher as thin as possible. Secure the ham with a cocktail stick. Brown all over in an oven proof frying pan then  transfer to the oven and cook for about 15 - 18 minutes at 190˚C/Mark 5.

Alternatively you can breadcrumb and either deep fry or oven bake. Prepare the chicken in the usual way with a coating of flour hen egg then breadcrumbs. (If you've forgotten how, find a reminder here). Refrigerate for at least an hour. Deep fry until the internal temperature reaches 74˚C.

(Personally, I think anything over 70˚C is fine, but that's what the books recommend.) You have to get your oil temperature right, so that your chicken is fully cooked but not burned. Maybe best to fry till brown, then transfer to the oven. Same temperature as above for about 20+ minutes. In this case transfer to a preheated baking tray, and drain before serving.

And here's the new one I promised.

Pesto alla Trapanese

This comes from Sicily, specifically from the town of Trapani. A simple variation involves almonds instead of pine nuts and the addition of tomatoes, giving a pleasant pink colour. Use this in exactly the same way you would use the conventional stuff.

Ingredients

2 medium cloves garlic; 60g blanched almonds, toasted; 25g basil leaves; 100g grated cheese, either pecorino or Parmesan or a mixture; 450g plum tomatoes, peeled and seeded; at least 60ml good olive oil (you may need more); salt.

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Blitz the garlic and almonds together, then add the cheese, basil and tomatoes. Add oil to get your desired consistency, then season with salt. If storing, put it in a sealed jar with a thin layer of oil on top and keep in the fridge.