Royal Durbar, Edinburgh

One good meal deserves another. And having enjoyed dinner at The Khukuri some months ago, Scotland's Finest Former Journalist and I determined to visit sister establishment Durbar. Then disaster stuck, in the form of a winding up petition from those tiresome people at H M Customs & Excise. Some sort of unpleasantness about non payment of taxes. I pass the place fairly regularly and it seemed that the doors were closed for just a few days before reopening in present form, but with the Royal moniker added. Some sort of corporate wizardry, I thought.

Well, not for the first time I was wrong on many fronts. Durbar was indeed owned at one time by Mukesh Sharma of The Khukuri; however, in its present incarnation it is owned by industry stalwarts Balwant Singh and Avishek Gupta. And they apparently spent some months renovating it. So, what do I know?

What I can say for certain is that they've done a darn fine job. On a Tuesday night the place was hotching. Full of happy people, although each diner must have had to engage the brain rather more than is normal in an Indian restaurant*. Take starters, for example. Half a dozen choices under the heading Street Foods. A list of Signature Starters which includes Tandoori Broccoli and Ginger Lamb Chops. And, wonder of wonders, a list of dosas, something I haven't seen often.

A dosa is a giant, thin, crispy sort of pancake made with flour of rice or of lentils. I first met one by accident at 6 a.m. in the huge dining room of a Delhi airport hotel, one of these places which will cater for every known breakfast in the universe. It's typically served with a filling of spiced potatoes, with sides of sambhar daal and chutneys. During the reminder of our holiday in India we gained street cred points in the hotels we stayed. Waiters expecting to be given an order for eggs noticeably brightened up when we demanded our daily dosa.

And how was it here? Well, actually, we didn't go for it. Next time. Veg pakora are always a good benchmark. The RD's were merely OK. That's the problem with fried food - it has to get to the table fast. Much much better were the pani puri. Relative newcomers to my social circle, I raved about the ones served at Tuk Tuk. These ones were almost hollow, but came with a jug of thin green sauce which you pour in. They have to be eaten in one mouthful. To say there is a hit of flavour is to understate things. After the first, you learn to brace yourself. Very good.

At first glance the mains menu seems familiar. Headings with options of versions with chicken, lamb, prawn etc. Then you see that the headings include Saag, Kadai and Malabar Masala. In the small print they very politely tell you that, classic British curries such as Tikka Masala, Korma... are available on request. But why go there when there are eight chef's specials to choose from, or ten veggie/vegan options in a section of their own? On the basis that the subcontinent has a higher proportion of vegetarians than anywhere else on the planet, this seems highly appropriate.

The SFFJ and I not being among their number we ordered Lamb Laal Maas and Garlic Achari Chicken. While they may have looked similar, this wasn't a one sauce fits all job. The former featured Mathania chillies from Rajasthan. They come in at about 50,000 - 80,000 on the Scoville scale. Despite that, a beautifully balanced dish. It's nice to have a proper garlic sauce, one which delivers what it promises. In many the herb is posted missing. In others the kitchen has managed to burn it, but has still had the effrontery to send it out.

In short, a fine meal. While portions may not have looked large on arrival, with one portion of rice and one naan (plus of course the statutory poppadoms) we were well sated. A solid 19/25.

*Apologies to everyone from every other part of the subcontinent. I use the adjective in its loose, inaccurate sense. If you can think of a better term, let me know.

Depending on WiFi availability and mood, Tom Eats! may be away for a couple of weeks.