Bistro 1155, Glasgow

You can have a nibble of mine, said the lady, quite early on in the proceedings. Trust me, this is not the type of offer to have come my way often these past decades. Hold that thought.

This is my second Tom Eats! outing in Glasgow with AF, one which confirms her immaculate taste in eating places. (Our previous lunch was at Margo in Miller Street.) While the city centre is doing its best, it has a long way to go to catch up with Finnieston. I knew that Bistro 1155 occupies the site of The Gannet, which closed at the end of 2025. What I hadn't realised is that exactly the same team were/are behind both.

I had never visited the previous incarnation. I knew it had won umpteen awards, including The Scottish Licensed Trade News Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year gong. The idea behind 1155 is to have an offering which is a little simpler and less formal, while maintaining the high culinary standards previously set by Peter McKenna's kitchen. Website blurb can be fairly nauseating; however, the phrase, we bring a fresh take on neighbourhood dining, blending locally sourced ingredients with thoughtful global influences, seems, on the basis of this visit, to be bang on.

A small aside. What's in a name? To my mind, quite a lot. Thus I'm a little confused. Some reviews refer to the place as Bistro 1155. On the other hand, the site itself and the menu simply state 1155. Note to self to check. (Peter has now emailed me to say he likes Bistro 1155. The email arrived at 0553. Does the man never sleep?)

AF has visited on many occasions. When I arrive she is chatting to co-owner and maitre d', Kevin Dow, laid back in a three piece suit sans tie (Kevin, that is, not AF). The word legendary has been bandied about regarding Kevin himself, not just his suits. We'd never previously met, but you can tell immediately when you're in the presence of a seasoned pro.

To the menu. As is not uncommon these days, there is an initial section, sometime named Snacks, here, more elegantly, Bites (on the website For the Table). It has two types of bread, Milk and Wheaten, both home made, of course. There are oysters three ways. With Peter's Irish roots, you just know they are going to be good. Then we find the Crispy Pig's Head Croquettes, the delights of which I've been promised a nibble. In fact I get my very own, a generous ball with a topping of pickled veg, and a little herb mayo on the side. Very fine. I believe they've been on Peter's menu for a fair while. A lot of work and food for seven quid.

AF goes on to have two starters, so the review is perhaps a little unbalanced. Having said that, all the signs are present. The variety, the attention to detail and, most importantly, the flavour. Starter 1. Leek Vinaigrette with Isle of Mull Royale (no, I don't know either), Chicory and Gribiche. This was no more than OK, the sauce gribiche being a mere smear. But enter the gladiators in the form of the beef tartare. Not only does it come with bone marrow, you are presented with the warmed marrow bone and spoon so you can get it out yourself. Great theatre and a great example, avoiding the overpowering heft of Worcester sauce which is rather too common.

Cured sea trout is becoming more common these days, especially with the anti-salmon movement gaining traction. But cured with miso and soy? That didn't come in in a packet. And when have you seen a smoked eel emulsion? I'm seriously impressed already.

The one main course sampled was braised lamb shoulder. I hope the boys will take it as high praise when I say it reminded me of a dish I once ate at Geoff Smeddle's The Peat Inn. You just keep finding extra bits. The lamb itself, braised for ever and seasoned with, I think, a hint of cumin, wrapped in a cabbage leaf. Yes, carrot was included among the poached root vegetables, but you don't find salsify on every twenty two pound plate. There was a little crispy ball which I correctly identified as a sweetbread, then from under the lamb a little spring of pureed spinach. No creamy gloop this, but a sauce retaining the authentic, slightly metallic taste of the veg, a fine counterpoint to the unctuousness of the meat. I failed to identify another croquette - aubergine apparently. And on the side a huge bowl of ratte potatoes with a lot of butter. By sharing these I think that I managed to reciprocate the nibble.

Astonishingly I see that a pud was sampled too. Lunching with a sharer is great. The millefeuille with white chocolate and coffee with some chocolate ice cream was a thing of loveliness, though the pastry had a texture more of biscuit than puff. A minor quibble.

All in all, eating here is just a joyful experience. I'm both sorry and ashamed that I didn't make it to The Gannet. It had been on the list for a good while: Kevin pointed out that it was there for twelve years. I will mitigate by pointing out that I'm an early reviewer of the new incarnation. Thanks to Peter and Kevin; thanks to our waitress, the lovely Jasmine; and thanks to AF for getting me here. Another nibble some time soon, I hope.