Balinese Black Rice Pudding

Tomorrow I intend to start counselling. It will be short and I’m sure it will be successful. For the past few weeks I have been manifesting an obsession with coconut. Today, it ends. I did mention on Wednesday that for many of us in the UK coconut is an ingredient which we find only in…

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Rogue, St Andrews

   Rogue 209  South Street, St Andrews KY16 9EF 01334 470354  www.rogue-standrews.com The Bill* Starters £8.00 – £18.00 | Mains £22.00 – £44.00  Desserts £7.00 – £9.00 *Most seafood and premium cuts of beef are charged at market prices  The Score Cooking 6/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value 4/5  TOTAL 19/25  Congratulate me,…

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In Praise of the Coconut

If you’ve been reading these columns since we got back from Sri Lanka you’ll be aware of the importance of the coconut in the cuisine of that lovely country. Because of that I learned a great deal about it, and was appalled at my prior ignorance. While I’m sure your knowledge level isn’t as low…

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Sri Lanka On The Side

Last week, a mutton curry: today, a couple of side dishes which might go with it. You’ll find daal everywhere, but the addition of coconut which you get in the Sri Lankan versions is a delight. Coconut Daal Ingredients 250g red lentils; 10 to 12 curry leaves; 1 tbsp onion finally chopped; 2 x 2-3…

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Muna’s Ethiopian Cuisine, Edinburgh

   Muna’s Ethiopian Cuisine 8 Gillespie Place, Edinburgh EH10 4HS 07886 118334  Instagram munasethiopiancuisine The Bill Veggie Dishes £12.95 – £13.95 | Meat Dishes £15.95 – £16.95   Combo Platters for one £15.95/£18.95 (Larger platters are available)  The Score Cooking 6/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value 5/5  TOTAL 20/25  Joy. It’s an old fashioned…

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Cookery Classes – Beware of Distractions

This column is of course influenced by the two cookery courses we attended in Sri Lanka, but a lot of memories came back. Attend something similar in this country and it may well be a fairly tightly run, professional affair. You may well have not only your own prep area, but even your own cooker.…

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Wallawwa, near Negombo, Sri Lanka

   Wallawwa Minuwangoda-Gampaha-Miriswatta Rd, Kotugoda, Sri Lanka +94 77 363 8381 www.teardrop-hotels.com/wallawwa/   The Bill*  Starters  £6.25 – £11.50 | Rice and Curry £10.50 – £24.50 Mains £9.00 – £24.25 | Dessert £3.00 – £6.50 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service – 4/5 Flavour 5/5 | Value 4/5  TOTAL 21/25  *Exchange Rate £1 – 350…

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Nuwan Wejitha’s Mutton Black Curry

Nuwan Wejitha This was one of the most glorious dishes I ate during our Sri Lankan tour. For breakfast, naturally. While I did occasionally go western at the start of a day – usually because we were sated from the night before – you don’t go to Sri Lanka to eat western food. Your curry…

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Cooking in Sri Lanka: Part 1 – Coconut

Shining, resplendent island. That’s Sri Lanka. Literally – it’s what the name means in the Sinhalese language, the one spoken by the majority of people here. The other, should you be interested, is Tamil, possibly the oldest spoken language in the world. But I digress. And in this lovely island, digress you will. Be entranced…

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Review of 2024. Part 2: 1 – 17=

RANK     RESTAURANT TOWN SCORE     COMMENTS 1 The Ritz NATIONAL RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR London     24 Perfection at a price. Executive Chef John Williams enjoys legendary status. Well deserved bit.ly/4cacb5l 2 Macau Kitchen SCOTTISH RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR Edinburgh     23 Unlikely that you will have eaten food like…

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Review of 2024. Part 1: 20 – 34

It’s very hard to believe that it’s that time of year again. Scores overall are significantly higher than in 2023. It could be that I’m getting softer as an assessor, but I think not. I can think of only two or three places where the food was mediocre or worse. Most of those at the…

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Lesley Johnston’s Blinis – And What To Do With Them

As a young solicitor, the wisest advice I ever got was from a grizzled surveyor. How much do you reckon that’s worth? I asked. The answer came with a kindly twinkle. Are you buying or selling? So I’ll pose a question, and give you a similar style answer. Canapés, yes or no? My response is, are you…

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A Wassailing We Shall Go

Wassail. Is it a song? Is it a drink? Is it a drinking vessel? The answer, originally, is, none of the above, but as we have seen, especially at Christmas, traditions evolve out of all recognition. Take the day itself. There seems to be no objective evidence at all regarding the exact date of Jesus’s…

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Tom Cooks! Venison Two Ways

In Wednesday’s On The Side, V was for venison. In what’s now a Tom’s Food! tradition (and it’s a good time of year for such things) what we blether about on a Wednesday we cook on a Friday. Two recipes today. The first is a fairly simple stew. When it comes to such things, simple…

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Why Tom (Sometimes) Doesn’t Eat

  A Restaurant With No Name Somewhere in Scotland   A ridiculous title, of course. Anyone who knows me will be aware that I couldn’t have got to my present shape without regular sessions in the nosebag. What it should have read, had I had a half decent sub editor, was Why Tom Sometimes Doesn’t…

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V is for Venison

Nearly 900 years ago, on the Feast Day of the Holy Cross, King David I of Scotland went hunting in the royal forest around Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh. Tsk, tsk, said the priests. Don’t do it, sire. Well he did. Encountered a huge white stag which knocked him off his horse and was about to…

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Maison François, London

  Maison François 34 Duke Street, St James, London SW1Y 6DF 020 3988 5777      www.maisonfrancois.london The Bill  Starters  £9.00 – £25.00  Mains £18.00 – £47.50 | Dessert £3.50 – £13.50 The Score Cooking 5.5/10  Service – Dylan 3/5; Sam 5/5 – Average 4/5 Flavour 3.5/5 | Value 3/5 TOTAL 16/25  For heaven’s sake,…

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Jay’s Nights Out At Home – Chicken in a Mustard Sauce

This is the third and final extract from Jay Rayner’s excellent Nights Out At Home. The recipe is inspired by a Henry Harris recipe for rabbit in a mustard sauce. Harris made this famous in a restaurant called Racine. He is now back behind the stoves in a reasonably new venture called Bouchon Racine, above a…

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Mince Pies – Where’s the Beef?

Last week’s venture into the wonderful world of Greggs steak bakes turned my mind to pies. And with us being in the month of December, I suppose that even a dyed in the wool, bah humbug type must permit discourse on the topic of Christmas. So consider this. Go into a butcher’s and ask for…

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Jay’s Nights Out At Home – The Steak Bake

Perhaps unsurprisingly, these extracts from Jay Rayner’s Nights Out At Home are going down a treat. The tale of the metre long cheese toastie (OK, I exaggerate slightly) boosted circulation. For those who have missed the review of the book itself and the previous article, a very brief explanation. I suggest not that Mr Rayner would…

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Quo Vadis, London

  Quo Vadis 26 – 29 Dean Street, Soho, London W1D 3LL 020 7437 9585  www.quovadissoho.co.uk The Bill The Bite! £7.50 – £8.50 | Starters  £9.50 – £16.50  Mains £17.00 – £38.80 | Pudding £9.50 – £11.00 The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 21.5/25  Did we always crave reassurance,…

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Roasted Duck Legs With Potatoes and Garlic

It’s Masterchef The Professionals time again. It’s the only one I watch. Masterchef for punters just depresses me by demonstrating how far my moderate culinary talents lag behind those of serious amateur cooks. And the so called Celebrity version? How many of us can recognise more than twenty percent of them? Every year, I swear…

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dulse leith, Edinburgh

  dulse leith 102 Constitution Street, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6AW 0131 283 3309   www.dulse.co.uk/dulseleith The Bill* Savoury Plates £12.00 – £35.00  Dessert Ice Cream £2.50 per scoop The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 5/5 | Value 4/5 TOTAL 22/25  * Oysters are available at £3.50 each. Baked Fish with Champagne & Chive Velouté…

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