Saag Aloo

When eating at an Indian restaurant, sometimes the vegetable side dishes can become the star of the show. Hardly surprising since India has by far the largest percentage of vegetarians in the world. Read to day’s review of Bell Bottom Indian Eatery and you’ll see the highest praise reserved for the Aloo Gobi Masala (potatoes…

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Bell Bottom Indian Eatery Edinburgh

  Bell Bottom Indian Eatery 2 Polwarth Crescent, Edinburgh EH11 1HW 0131 467 2555    www.bellbottomeatery.co.uk The Bill  Lunch – Thali (Drink Included)  Veg £19.99 | Non Veg £22.99 A la carte  Starters £6.99 – £8.99 | Mains £8.99 – £19.99  The Score Cooking 6.5/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 4.5/5  TOTAL 20.5/25 …

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Lamb Bites for Easter

Easter. Lamb I suppose. Regular readers know my views on that by now. But hey, lamb/hogget/mutton is delicious at any time of year. As with many culinary delights, the two optimum cooking options are hard and fast or low and slow. Thus I like a lamb leg done at a fairly high heat, pink and…

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sō-lō, Aughton, Merseyside

  sō-lō 17 Town Green Lane, Aughton, Ormskirk L59 6SE 01695 302170  www.restaurantsolo.co.uk   The Bill Lunch Menu (3 courses) £52.00 Sunday Lunch Menu (4 courses) £64.00  Tasting Menu (6 courses) £105.00  The Score Cooking 10/10 | Service 5/5 Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 25/25  We like to think of this as more than…

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W is for Wasabi

This is not a W which has ever occupied my thoughts much. Come to think of it I’d be surprised if many of our ancestors would have heard of it. For me, it’s bracketed in the Foods From Hell section, along with English mustard. The comparison is hardly surprising, since they are both members of the…

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Tiger Rock, Liverpool

  Tiger Rock North John Street, Liverpool L2 9RU 0151 363 6650  www.tigerrockliverpool.uk     The Bill Small Plates £6.80 – £11.80 | Desserts £4.80 – £6.80  The Score Cooking 5.5/10 | Service 4/5 Flavour 4/5 | Value 4.5/5  TOTAL 18/25  It’s Grand National weekend in Liverpool, further extending the range of remarkable Scouse sights. There are more…

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Prawn and Spinach Risotto

Hadn’t been to the shops for a while and no clear plan on what to make for the memsahib’s dinner. The fridge had a vat of stock from a chicken earlier in the week. The veg drawer had half an onion and half a red pepper, plus a bag of spinach. The stock was the…

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Some Thoughts On Ordering Wine

Well, stop right there. Clearly this article is NOT for you. Why? Because I know for a fact that all of my readers are knowledgeable, sophisticated oenophiles who require no input from me. But, perhaps, for your children, or your less rounded cousins from the provinces? Anyway the idea for today’s piece came from Jancis…

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Pine Nut Roulade with Asparagus and Hollandaise

Asparagus bunches

Well, after we came out of the restricted March offering, and had an article on Luxury on Wednesday, you could have been forgiven for expecting larks’ tongues or lobster Thermidor this week. But before you start to complain, pause for a moment. Pine nuts are one of life’s more expensive store cupboard ingredients and this…

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Purslane Restaurant, Edinburgh

  Purslane Restaurant 33A St Stephen Street, Edinburgh EH3 5AH 0131 226 3500  www.purslanerestaurant.co.uk   The Bill  Lunch  Two courses £29.95 | Three courses £34.95 Dinner – Tasting Menu Only 5 courses £75.00 | 7 courses £95.00  The Score Cooking 8/10 | Service 3.5/5 Flavour 5/5 | Value 5/5  TOTAL 21.5/25  Purslane. No, not one…

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Luxury!

Luxury. What does that mean to you? What about – We used to have to get out of the lake at six o’clock in the morning, clean the lake, eat a handful of hot gravel, work twenty hour day at mill for tuppence  a month, come home, and dad would beat us around the head…

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Sarah Mellersh’s Onion Tarte Tatin

Continuing the vegetarian theme, I turned for inspiration, as I so often do, to a thick red folder from Let’s Cook Scotland. As many of you are aware, that’s where I spent a game changing fortnight under the Sarah Mellersh tutelage of the very lovely Sarah Mellersh. There are hundreds of recipes in the book…

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The Best Meal: The Worst Meal

Six months or so ago I issued an invitation to all of you who have provided guest reviews over the years. The call was to contribute articles recalling your best ever, or worst ever, dining experience, or both. It would appear that many of you have, ahem, forgotten. But a single response was received. Since…

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Avengers Assemble

L to R – Tim Hayward, Jancis Robinson, Jay Rayner. Marina O’Loughlin No, this isn’t the latest blockbuster from Marvel Films nor, sadly, does it feature Diana Rigg. It’s the tongue in cheek description for the the line up of food writers assembled in the Financial Times Weekend Magazine. As a result of the controversial…

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Portuguese Green Beans with Potatoes (Plus Guest Recipe)

We’ve been on our annual jaunt to see cheery chums in Portugal. There’s a lot more to the cuisine of that country than people think. Here’s a recipe which I picked up. It’s vegetarian (as promised for this month), though I think I’d be tempted to use chicken stock. The recipe suggests flat green beans.…

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Capri, Fuseta, Algarve, Portugal

  Capri Praça da República 4  8700-012 Fuseta, Algarve, Portugal +351  289 793 165  Instagram www.instagram.com/cafecaprifz     The Bill (in Euros)* Mains €7.50 – €19.00 Desserts €3.50 * Prawns, crab and langoustines are sold by weight  The Score Cooking 6.5/10 | Service 4.5/5 Flavour 4.5/5 | Value 5/5  TOTAL 20.5/25  As a youth I…

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Food! What Did The Portuguese Ever Do For Us?

It might be thought that in history as recent as the 20th century, it would be matter of simple record to attribute inventions to the appropriate people. Yet, a little time as a tour guide, boasting of all things Scottish, throws up any number of anomalies. The telephone, for example. Not much doubt about the…

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Cranks Aubergine Parmesan

It takes a special group of people to set up a restaurant and simultaneously to poke fun at themselves. When David and Kay Canter and friend Daphne Swann opened Cranks in in London in the early 1960s, that is precisely how vegetarians were regarded. This was pre swinging London, but the Carnaby Street location certainly…

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Craobh, Crieff

   Craobh 26 James Square, Crieff PH7 3EY 01764 650762    www.craobhrestaurant.com The Bill Brunch/Lunch Brunch Dishes £7.50 – £10.50 | Sandwiches £9.50 – £12.50 Mains £14.00 – £33.00 | Desserts £1.50 – £8.50  Dinner Small Plates £8.50 – £10.00 | Mains £15.00 – £33.00  Desserts £1.50 – £8.50  The Score Cooking 5.5/10 | Service…

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Tom Cooks! is Vegetarian in March. Why?

A couple of weeks ago, I announced that during the month of March the recipes in Tom Cooks! would be meat free. The reason was simply that I thought it had been a bit meat heavy in recent months, but it did get me thinking about some of the pros and cons of diet types.…

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Potage Crème Dubarry

Last week I declared that in the month of March, Tom Cooks! would be a meat free column. I noticed that we are still in February, so I’m meeting you halfway, reproducing one of the dishes which Binkie Johnston enjoyed at the Tsar’s table in 1914. Those of you with decent French will have noticed…

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Dinner in St Petersburg – Guest Reviewer, Binkie Johnston

  Peterhof, St Petersburg 1914   We first encountered my ancestor Binkie Johnston four years ago when we published his account of the last meal served from the First Class kitchen of the Titanic. Many of you assumed he had perished: some were kind enough to send condolences. I did drop a hint that we…

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How To Become A Food Critic

No, I’m not suggesting for one second that you even consider joining this elite band. Heaven knows there are far too many of them/us, albeit of variable quality. On Sunday last in a national newspaper I read a review of what sounded like a very pleasant lunch – with no clue as to cost. But…

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