Spaghetti alla Casa Johnston
Seasonality? Not easy here in Britain. We saw the sun early in the month. The first asparagus came with spring promise. Our sojourn in London wasn't of the warmest, but in the gently heat of our last day I was contemplating dishes with which to tempt you. Something light to be eaten al fresco, perhaps, or some ideas to get you scrubbing the gunge from the barbecue.
Then the train arrived at freezing Waverley, and the culinary mood changed. Steamed pudding perhaps? Or a hearty daube? I decided instead to give you a dish which is never out of season here, one which undoubtedly I have cooked more than any other. When I were a lad, the food which would get my juices going was one i could smell from a distance as I approached the house. Forget cakes, pies and puddings, it was my Ma's spaghetti which got the juices going.
Needless to say I never did get the recipe from her. It was shamefully omitted from The Mammy's Cookbook. This is my version. I have since learned that it bears a resemblance to a classic Spaghetti all'Amatriciana. Purists, however, would use guanciale (pork cheek) instead of bacon. They might well take exception to the garlic and onion, and I believe that the original also features pecorino. All I'll say is that this is darn good. Try it my way, then play around with it. Use whatever pasta you fancy.
I've used chorizo or chopped salami in place of bacon. Italian food is often spicy. Increase or omit the chilli. We don't get decent fresh tomatoes, so I always use tinned. I refuse to pay a fortune for San Marzano or the like; however, if you are using the cheap ones, a pinch of sugar, maybe more, is essential. Taste as you go (as if you wouldn't). One final thought about basil. Tear the leaves, don't cut them. Contact with metal makes them turn black.
Ingredients
For the sauce (serves 2 hungry people)
2 small to medium size onions, chopped; 1 - 2 cloves of garlic, crushed; 3 - 4 rashers of unsmoked streaky bacon, cut into small pieces; good squeeze of tomato purée; 1 400g tin of tomatoes; pinch of sugar; splash of red wine (about 50ml) (optional); pinch of chilli flakes (optional); 1 bay leaf; 2 tsp dried oregano; olive oil for cooking; s & p.
For the pasta
Allow 80 - 100g dried pasta per person; butter; Parmesan or Pecorino cheese; fresh basil leaves (optional); black pepper.
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In a heavy frying pan, gently cook the onions with the garlic. Season at this stage, but have a light hand with the salt, as you'll be adding bacon. When the onion is not quite soft add the bacon and stir together. Cook for a few minutes more. When the onion is soft add the tomato purée and mix well. Stir in the tomatoes and about a tinful of water. This makes sure you're not wasting anything from the tin. Increase the heat to a simmer. Add the sugar, bay leaf, the oregano and a lot of freshly ground black pepper. If using, chuck in the wine and chill at this stage too.
Simmer for a good 15 minutes. You want the sauce to reduce, but make sure it doesn't stick. Add more water if necessary. Check the seasoning as you go. It may need a little more sugar.
You can make the sauce well in advance. It also freezes well.
Cook the pasta till al dente. Drain and toss well with a generous chunk of butter. Italians would add the sauce to the pasta in the pan. I don't, because I never get the quantities right. Remember to warm your plates. Spoon the pasta over the sauce. Top with a generous grating of cheese and pepper. If you have them, ripped fresh basil leaves are nice too.
Buon appetito!
PS In today's Tom Eats! I was scathing about pasta prices in La Locanda. I costed today's dish ignoring the optional ingredients. You could easily get three portions out of the sauce, but allowing for two helpings you are talking about £1.20 a head. Yes, I am well aware of restaurant economics - don't write in - but even allowing a margin of five times food costs plus VAT, you could be making a profit selling this at a tenner. Not a great profit, so £15 or £16 is acceptable. But not £22.90.