An Authentic Brown Lentil Dahl

You may or may not recall a recent On The Side column on the subject of dahl. These are usually followed up on the Friday with a recipe; however, I was on a roll with the sandwich series and didn't want you to get crusty if I interrupted it. But today is the day.

Now I can pretend no great expertise on the food of the Indian subcontinent. I've spent a couple of great holidays in India and one in Sri Lanka, and made my share of dishes which I've sampled; however, I'm not really qualified to tell whether a recipe is authentic or not. This time last year I published a recipe for sag aloo, one which I've cooked often and which is a favourite in the Palace of the Maharajah Johnston.

While I do welcome readers' comments, it was to my chagrin that I was taken to task by reader Tahira Nasim.

Oh my days- This is just spinach curry Tom!! Where are the mustard leaves which is what makes it proper saag? We need a cookery session together!!  

It continued at some length in the same vein. I was obviously fearful of reprisals for any attempt at dahl. So I did the logical thing and got in touch with Tahira. She is a ferociously busy lady but, bless her cotton socks, she volunteered her family recipe, which I reproduce below. Thanks, Tahira.

Tahira Nasim's Family Recipe for Brown Lentil Dahl 

Ingredients

1 cup/mug of brown lentils, washed; 50g butter; 5tbsp olive oil; 1 onion, finely diced; 6 cloves of garlic, chopped or crushed; small piece of ginger, very finely chopped or grated (use more if you like it zingy); 6 hot fresh chillies, finely chopped; 2 fresh ripe tomatoes, chopped (I think you could get away with tinned); 1 tsp good quality salt; ½ tsp ground turmeric; 4 curry leaves (use bay leaves if you can't find curry leaves); 1 cinnamon stick; 1 tsp crushed coriander seeds; 2 black cardamom pods (seeds only); 1tbsp cumin seeds; 1 tsp fennel seeds; 1 level tbsp ground chilli; ½ tsp Nigella seeds; 1 star anise; 1 tbsp dried fenugreek.

To be added at the end

½ tsp garam masala; 2tbsp natural yoghurt; quantity of freshly chopped coriander.

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Wash the lentils well. You can leave to soak for a couple of hours, but Tahira says it's not necessary.

Toast the cumin seeds in a dry pan for a couple of minutes.

Heat the butter and oil in a large pan. Cook the onion gently for 10 minutes until very soft, then add the garlic and cook for around 2-3 minutes. Next add the chillies and cook for another few minutes. Then add the minced ginger and give it another few minutes, then add the chopped tomatoes.

Now add your spices. Tahira says to start with the salt, turmeric, curry leaves and work through the whole lot bar the ones specified for the end of the recipe.

Once you’ve got a nice soft base, drain your lentils and stir them into the mixture. Add a good amount of water - about 3 - 4 times your lentil quantity - so say 3 - 4 cups/mugs of cold water. Bring to the boil. (After the first draft of this article was written, Tahira and I discussed the lentil/water proportion. There are dangers either way. With a ratio of 1:4 it might end up too wet. It is probably easier to top up than to evaporate. I've decided to hedge the bets with the rather vague "3 - 4". It's not that difficult to let lentils singe, in which case the dish can be ruined. The moral is, keep a close eye on your dahl. It is a precious and ultimately wonderful dish. Don't take it for granted.)

Bring to a bubble and cook with the lid off for the first 10 minutes, then reduce to a gentle simmer and cook with a lid on. Be careful they don’t boil over. Then can cook for around 45mins - 1 hour. You will know they are ready when punched between the fingers they will squish easily. Also let them absorb most of the liquid leaving enough to make it nice and moist not dried out. Add more boiled water in stages if needed.

Towards the end add the fenugreek,  garam masala and yoghurt, then the coriander. Cook on a low heat for a further few minutes. You will know when its done by the texture. Good dahl is rich and smooth, neither too dry nor too liquid.

Last word to Tahira-

Best served with your rice whatever way you like: boiled or pilau with chick peas are good options. I usually have a fine salad with it and of course raita. That’s an entirely different recipe!

Thanks, Tahira. I can tell you that talks are ongoing to fix up that cookery session.

The image of the dahl is a stock image, and not Tahira's own. But the other photo is indeed the lady herself.