Scotch Broth
In her recent review of The Soup Solution, Cat Thomson name checked two famous Scottish varieties, one of these being Scotch Broth. Truth be told, it's not my favourite. It's also very fiddly to make, which may explain why we don't see it so much these days. This recipe comes from a cookbook written by my late Ma, Meg Johnston. A very limited edition - one copy only - as it was a present to me when I started cooking at university. I've changed the quantities from Imperial to metric, and I've added a few footnotes. Otherwise it's more or less verbatim.
Ingredients
A very large pot;[1] 2 litres water; a very large piece of runner beef;[2] a not so large marrow bone; 30 – 45g barley, soaked in treble the quantity of water for at least a few hours – overnight does no harm; 45 – 60g dried peas, soaked (separately from the barley); 120g carrots, neatly diced; 120g turnip (that’s swede to the non-Scots – though I gather Geordies also get it right), neatly diced; 120g onions, neatly diced; 2 large leeks, split and finely sliced crossways, green and white parts separated; approx 60g dried mixed vegetables[3]; 1 chicken stock cube or pot; a little dried parsley[4]; salt and pepper.
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This can only be tackled with the aid of the kitchen scales, otherwise, as it cooks, you will find that the barley and dried peas you threw in so abundantly have taken over and there will be no room in the pot for the vegetables. This soup, therefore, is no challenge[5]– you have to go against nature and be METHODICAL. Boil together the beef and the bone. [6]Skim the liquid, then add the barley and the peas (drained and rinsed) and cook for 20 – 30 minutes. Fish a pea from the pot from time to time and test for softness (or hardness, since you’re an argumentative hair-splitting fella). With restraint – how I hate this soup – you can now add the carrots and the turnip and the onions, neatly diced. Emphasis on neatly, lad, this soup reveals all when dished up. Wipe the tears away [7]and add the carrot, turnip and onion when the peas are al dente but not quite – ma’s logic I think you can follow? Simmer until vegetable are tender.
Meanwhile back at the sink prepare 2 large leeks. Discard rough outer leaves, split up the middle (another sair thing) and wash very thoroughly so that Mother Earth doesn’t reach yer actual Scotch Broth. Taste, season then, v important, add the diced white of the leek – having of course kept white and green bits apart.
You will by now have made a pot of very dreary soup, so now for the Johnston abandon – throw in the dried veg, unreconstituted, a chicken stock cube or pot, and a little dried parsley. Simmer the green diced leek for a couple of minutes in a little water in a separate pan, then add to the broth. Taste again and check the seasoning.
Amen.
[1] The sharp eyed among you will have noted that this is not technically an ingredient, but I have to put it in somewhere without deviating from her text
[2] This is variously known as thick rib or leg of mutton cut. It’s from the shoulder, above the brisket and below the chuck and blade, if that helps. Your butcher will know what you mean (or should). She doesn’t specify size. I would guess 400 – 500g
[3] Be careful here. She used a brand called SWELL, which is now available from health food shops under the name BRAMIK. You can get dried mixed veg from Sainsbury’s or Amazon, produced by Whole Foods. The contents should be carrot, potato, onion, leek, turnip, cabbage and peas. Do NOT use anything which contains peppers, and do NOT confuse this with dried vegetable broth mix. She got the tip from a professional chef, and it does make a difference. Be careful not to use too much as it does swell up alarmingly, hence the original name
[4] Well, be kind to her. It was hard to get fresh parsley in the 1970s unless you grew your own. Certain types of dried herbs can be very useful. In my view, parsley is not one of those. Use fresh – curly, not flat
[5] Oh yes it is
[6] My interpretation of this is to put them in cold water, bring to the boil, then simmer for at least half an hour
[7] She meant from the onion chopping
Tom. Great recipe and memories – Swell, haven’t heard of that for 60 years – what my mother used too. She used “boiling” beef. Butchers up here in the North East still sell it. I make it once or twice a year (with broth mix) and fresh veg.
Lovely Tom, though. I’m still not getting why the neatness of the onion chopping is a thing.
Swell was a big thing in our house – a weekly purchase from the store.
You would have had to ask my mum about that. And if you wanted to contradict her you would have ben a very brave man indeed. (Though I think she would have liked you, and she didn’t like many people.)
Nice Tom, memories of my childhood, but if you want a modern version talk to the Queen of Soup – she uses a bought mix of the dried ingredients – sooo much quicker and easier but still delicious.