The Young? No Staying Power

Not even two and a half years since I ranted about The Sunday Times and its choice of restaurant reviewer. Or to be more accurate, about giving my job to someone else. (See Tom Eats! A New Restaurant Critic published in October 2023.) I was then forced to concede that new kid on the block, Charlotte Ivers, was really rather good.

I read her stuff whenever I get a Sunday paper, and rather enjoy it. That, however, is a relatively rare occurrence. I often find that it takes me till Monday to finish the Saturday editions. By coincidence I lifted a copy last weekend. And what did I find? It's the lady's last ever restaurant column. Incredible. Barely out of fine dining nappies and she's off.

I'm really not sure that's allowed. Yes, her predecessor Marina O'Loughlin did move on after five years; however, she'd done a five stretch at The Grauniad before that, and is still involved in the game, penning some excellent stuff for, among others. Noble Rot magazine. Some would take the view that it's analogous with being the Holy Father in that you're in post for life. Take for example the influential and at times controversial AA Gill, who died in harness in December 2016. Another who went straight to the Great Corner Table in the Sky was Charles Campion of The Observer. I admired his work, but given his girth it's no great surprise that he didn't see out his three score years and ten.

Nearer to home Gaby Soutar will soon notch up twenty years at The Scotsman. I think my views on her columns are well enough known, but those who work with her say she is a very lovely person. Among the current crop are a few who can boast of a quarter of a century or thereby. Tom Parker Bowles (The Mail on Sunday since 2002); Giles Coren (The Times since 2002): and, of course, The Guv'nor.

Jay Rayner has been only a year at the Financial Times for a year but started producing food based delights at The Observer in March 1999. But it has to be said that all of these good people are Johnnies-come-lately, mere fly-by-nights compared to the grande dame that is Fay Maschler*. The Grandmammy of them all held the post at the London Evening Standard from 1972 to 2020, a whopping 48 years. For obvious reasons I didn't see her column much, but she is still referred to with reverence by many of the current crop.

What then are Ms Ivers' reasons for baling out so soon? Getting married and going to live in the Lake District, apparently. The good news is that she'll be back at The Sunday Times in March with a new column, which will feature food from time to time. So, Charlotte, thanks for the brief but excellent memories, and best wishes from Tom's Food!

*Fay Maschler got the job after winning a competition. It was supposed to last for three months. After leaving The Standard she was appointed food critic of Tatler magazine to which, I believe, she still contributes at 80.