Risotto with Shallot, Bottarga (Grey Mullet Roe) and Lemon
This is my take on the stunning risotto which I ate at Antica Trattoria Al Gallo 1909 in Ravenna a week or two ago. I have no inside knowledge, but I've done some research. They used the salted, cured roe (bottarga) of sea bass, which I had never encountered before. The more commonly found variety is bottarga which comes from grey mullet. Not the easiest to obtain, but you can get it by mail order if your fish merchant can't oblige.Serves 4
320g Carnaroli rice; 2 large shallots, grated; 1 litre chicken stock, preferably homemade; about 100ml dry white wine; 50g butter (preferably unsalted); 35–40g bottarga (grey mullet roe), finely grated; 25g Parmesan, finely grated; 1 unwaxed lemon; 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (as if you would use any other kind) or omit and use more butter; salt; white pepper (optional).
************************************************
Cook the shallots very gently in the olive oil and about 20g of the butter (or butter only) until completely soft and translucent.
Warm the stock to just below a simmer. Add the rice to the shallot mixture and toast it for a couple of minutes, stirring constantly until the grains start to turn translucent. Add the wine and allow it to evaporate almost completely.
Then begin adding the hot stock, one ladle at a time, stirring frequently. Don't drown the rice: each addition should largely be absorbed before the next. Continue until the rice is al dente and the consistency is all' onda (my new favourite term) ie, loose enough that it gently spreads when the plate is shaken.
Take the off the heat.
Now the important bit: beat in the remaining cold butter, the Parmesan and about half the bottarga. Add a little more hot stock if necessary. Grate in just a little lemon zest. Taste before adding any salt: bottarga and Parmesan have lots. Some pepper never goes amiss, but up to you. I'd use white here.
Leave it for 60 seconds, then stir once more. Add a squeeze of lemon juice just before serving.
Serve immediately in warm, shallow bowls, finishing with the remaining bottarga grated very finely over the top. Some would add a tiny drizzle of good olive oil. I wouldn't.