Ka Pao, Edinburgh

When you go to an established place which earns rave reviews, there is a certain proprietorial pleasure to be had from knowing you were one of the first to discover it. Take, for example, the genesis of Ka Pao. (Writing that, it sounds alarmingly like the title of an episode of Doctor Who, but let's move swiftly on.)

Six years ago, three of today's cast of characters were at the soft opening of the original establishment in Glasgow. Then, as today, it was to celebrate the birthday of middle daughter K. Two important additions, L of course, and Miss FJ, latest member of the family. On the outside the venues couldn't be more dissimilar. The Glasgow restaurant lives in a stylish basement, once garage to the Botanical Gardens: in Edinburgh, it's the sterile glass and concrete of the St James Quarter. But in each case design work led by Stuart Black of Mosaic Architecture and Design has created a comforting interior. As with all places run by Scoop Restaurants (Ox and Finch, Baba, Margo, and Sebbs) space for, and comfort of, the chefs has been a paramount consideration.

The food is inspired by the cuisine of south east Asia. Given the glorious overlapping of flavours and  influences in that great region, it would be pointless to try to pin down the exact origin of most of the plates. These good people have always been into small plates, which lends itself ideally to this style of food. Having said that, the menu is a little tricky. Starting from the top left, there is a box containing 5 options. Snacks, perhaps? Well, yes, it includes cashews, peanuts and padron peppers, but it also contains beef short rib skewers and spicy lamb sausage.

Start to read the next group of 8 and you might think that's the veggie section. Corn ribs, for example, and salt and szechuan pepper oyster mushrooms. But then you're straight on to beef tartare and crispy pork belly. On to the next 9, including such diverse delights as stir-fried ox tongue with pak choi, oyster sauce and green peppercorns, or orange curry of chalkstream trout with shaved fennel. In price order, perhaps? Well there is a whole grilled bream with green nam jim (dipping sauce) which seems remarkable value at £22, but the glorious hispi cabbage with cashew nut butter and house sriracha is a mere £11.50. I see this was on the menu in Glasgow six years ago. I'm not surprised that it's an ever present - don't miss it.

And there is also a choice of three larger plates, involving scallops, 300g of pork neck or curry of creedy carver duck which will set you back between £28 and £35. Confused? Well, do as we did and go with a group of 4 or more, in which case you can enjoy the sharing menu. But be hungry. 11 dishes, plus salad, plus jasmine rice which they are happy to top up.

This is real authentic stuff with some clever twists. Miang is a snack involving food wrapped in leaves. Here the content is Arbroath smokie, enhanced with galangal, apple and peanuts. You can find charred corn ribs in many places these days, but not with salted coconut, shrimp and lime. I don't know where they source their ingredients, but the aubergines which accompany the Thai style green curry of lamb shoulder are the baby ones which you find in Asian markets but not in Tesco.

Flavour wise, the kitchen doesn't hold back. I've criticised many places in the past for being Asia-lite. Not here. As you should expect, there is a general background of heat - wonderfully described by LC as tinnitus of the lips - which along with flavours of sweet, salt and sour form the quintessential SE Asian quadrumvirate. But in skilled cooking that balance varies from plate to plate. There is a nice kick to the beef tartare with chilli jam and fried garlic (the latter a tricky thing to get right) and the kitchen isn't afraid to let rip. The terrific stir fried sprouting broccoli with burnt tomato sambal will certainly clear pores and sinuses.

I can't overlook Miss FJ's lunch from the Ka Pao Kids section. A generous portion of crispy fish - no not fingers - corn ribs, cucumber and tomato salad, rice and curry sauce. And all for a fiver. I sampled the fish myself, and very good it was too. The curry sauce dish was being carefully licked at the end, and not by me. Truly, a trencherwoman is born.

Well, not at the very end. K had previously sampled the sticky tamarind and ginger sponge with coconut and lime mascarpone. In the interest of family cooperation we took a spoon each. Note to self - use tamarind more often. Try this subtle delight and you will never go back to its over sweet sticky toffee cousin ever again.

I promise you that not only will you not be hungry at the end, you will be very happy. And the really great thing is that there are still so many dishes left to try. Roll on next time.