The Bailie, Edinburgh

It was one of the more unusual nuisance calls. There I was, sitting patiently in the chiropodist's waiting room when the phone rang. Then some chap starts telling me, in an apologetic tone, about the problems he's having with his plumbing. I was about to suggest he get his prostate checked when I realised he was from the place where the Retired Captain of Industry and I were scheduled to lunch a few hours later. Well, not today then.

We had a chat about possible alternative venues and the name of The Bailie came up. A nice, long established pub in Edinburgh's Stockbridge. I'd eaten there years ago, but long before the Tom Eats! days. Pub grub, I recalled, but quite decent. It's at semi basement level and hasn't changed in all the years I've known it. No piped music, no fruit machine and every daily paper under and including The Sun.

There is a separate dining area. Food is not just an afterthought as it seems to be in many boozers. It is extraordinary to reflect that less than half a century ago the notion of proper cooked food in a Scottish pub was a radical one. Peckish? Crisps or nuts. Possibly a curled up sandwich or a five day old pie, and that was your lot. There's an interesting section on their website about the history of the place and the way Stockbridge has been transformed from slum to chichi. But we digress.

It's fair to say that the RCI and I didn't have the highest of expectations, but the lovely Madison who looked after us certainly provided the warmest of welcomes on a very dreich day. And had a bottle of red on the table within seconds of it being ordered. We like this lady already. There is a regular menu augmented by daily specials. In the main it comprises pub staples - soup, sausages, burgers, fish and chips etc. Nothing wrong with that, but the advice about not judging a book by the cover is very appropriate here.

To start, chicken liver paté and whitebait. So many potential pitfalls, all skilfully avoided. The paté was home made, deeply flavoursome, smooth and silky, with a perfectly balanced chutney. The whitebait were breaded as opposed to floured, well seasoned and fried by someone who understands the importance of keeping his cooking oil hot.

Shepherd's pie and pork loin steaks are two more things which can go horribly wrong. Here, the only error was in the menu spelling (sheppard's). Many ignore the difference between the shepherd's and the cottage versions. The former must be made with minced lamb or mutton, the latter with beef. Not only was good lamb mince involved, it was beautifully seasoned with an unexpected kick of cumin. An excellent piece of pork. perfectly cooked for traditional tastes. I could have done with a minute or two less on the grill, but most of the pub going world just isn't ready for pork which is slightly pink. The chips were the best I've had in a long time. Taste like they're triple cooked, I thought. We complimented chef on them. I triple cook them, he said.

We didn't look at the dessert menu, but I see that the specials board included blood orange sorbet and apple tart. I'd be willing to bet that these didn't come from Brake Brothers either. So compliments to chef and double compliments to Madison. The strapline on the website describes The Bailie as being like your local should be. This is definitely pub food like it should be.