World Champagne Day – Why?

Today we welcome back our very own resident wine expert Diana Thompson. Diana's ludicrously hectic schedule prevents these columns from being as frequent as we both would like, but it's great to hear from her again. It was from her newsletter that I discovered that last week, October 23 to be precise, was World Champagne Day. We've written in the past about such "commemorative" dates, but of them all, this has to be the stupidest.

Nothing at all to do with Ms T, of course. Were it possible I would decree that there should be 365 Champagne Days per annum (excepting, obviously, leap years). Perhaps it comes from my genes. My late Pa was a great believer in the medicinal and other properties of the stuff. When I was living on my own at Uni, I remember he and mum coming to stay for the weekend. Dad arrived clutching a bottle of Veuve Clicquot. When I asked what was the special occasion, the answer was, it's Friday, isn't it?

Mind you that was as nothing when compared to Lilly Bollinger, then head of the Champagne house which bore her name. In 1961, being interviewed by a London newspaper, she was asked about when she drank Champagne. This was her famous reply-

I drink Champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it – unless I'm thirsty.

Coming up to date, Diana has penned an interesting article on the 2026 harvest. Many thanks to her for permission to reproduce it.

At the recent Champagne Academy dinner, Olivier Krug gave a fascinating insight into the 2026 harvest. It was the hottest summer on record, with not one but five heatwaves. Krug lost 38% of its harvest, the second worst since 2003.

Krug started picking grapes on 6 August – the earliest start of harvest ever – and finished on 27 August. To put that in perspective, the previous record was 17 August in 2020, and before 2003 the harvest hadn’t begun in August since 1822. A generation or two ago, picking as late as early October was quite normal.

Starting so early brought its own challenges. August is holiday season in France, so pickers and transport were hard to find. Despite being so early, Krug believe they had started five or six days too late, as the grapes were already reaching 13% potential alcohol - the legal maximum for Champagne. However, the big news this year is that the authorities have given a one-off permission for this vintage to go higher, raising the limit to 15% abv for the first time ever.  However, whether any producer will do this in practice is another question.

The good news is that 2026 should produce exceptional reserve wines. Most Champagne is non-vintage, blended from many different cuvées and years, known as "reserve wines" and every house keeps an extensive library of these for this purpose. The 2026 wines will add depth and character to those blends for years to come. So, while this was a very challenging vintage, there’s no need to worry: there will still be plenty of Champagne to go round.

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This seems an opportune time to remind you that Diana's annual Fizz Feast will be happening on Saturday 28 November at the Edinburgh Academy, 48 Henderson Row,  Edinburgh. There are two sessions, 12 - 3 and 4 - 7. Tickets are for sale at the ludicrously low price of £32 and, if you're quick, there are also masterclasses available. There is a 15% discount for our readers. When booking quote the code FFTOMSFOOD15. If you go to only one wine tasting in 2026, make it this one. Been to one already? Make it two.

Visit Diana's website Wine Events Scotland for information about the fantastic range of other wine tastings, festivals and gift ideas. If you're looking for festive corporate entertainment, have you considered a bespoke wine tasting in your office? To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the business, a 10% discount is being offered on all bookings made before Christmas.