Some More Books
Of late my stated aim of one in, one out when it comes to cook books has failed. Never mind. Here are three which have arrived on the shelves recently.
The first is something of a classic. In a fairly recent review of chefs choosing their favourite books, this featured frequently. The original first appeared in 1990, when Marco was in his pomp, before he sold out, lending his name to inferior steak houses and stock cubes. I found a copy on Amazon for £115, and my enthusiasm waned. I knew that a 25th anniversary edition had been published and found one at a sensible cost. I believe it's out of print now, which is why I'm not quoting a price. Look online.
White Heat 25
Marco Pierre White Mitchell Beazley pp191
Once in a blue moon a book is published that changes irrevocably the face of things. "White Heat" is one such book. Since it was originally produced in 1990, it has gone on to become one of the most enduring classic cook books of our time.
Younger readers may be forgiven for not knowing much about White; however, in the 1980s and 90s he had a reasonable claim to being the first rock star chef. That may not be regarded as a compliment; however, his flamboyance was certainly matched by his talent. Having missed a train home to Yorkshire, he presented himself unannounced at the back door of Le Gavroche. Something about him persuaded Albert Roux to give him a job.He went on to become the youngest chef ever to gain 3 Michelin stars. Along the way he trained the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Jason Atherton. An aura surrounded him, which is probably responsible for the ridiculous quotation at the top of the page.
What really makes this book stand out is the phenomenal photography of Bob Carlos Clarke. The first 50 pages or so are devoted to images dotted with aphorisms from White. There are 60 pages of recipes which will make you realise (a) why White got his stars and (b) why you have no chance. Then there is the epilogue. 64 pages of his peers writing nice things about him. The latter part of the opening quotation reads, With its unique blend of outspoken opinion, recipes, and dramatic photographs, "White Heat" captures the magic and spirit of Marco Pierre White in the heat of his kitchen. That at least one can agree with,
I'm glad I've read it, but I think this will soon be assisting the one in, one out balance.
The Racine Effect
Classic French Recipes From A Lifetime In The Kitchen
Henry Harris
Quadrille Publishing pp287 £40
This by contrast is a book to cosy up with this autumn, to realise that you want to eat everything in it, and, to your surprise realise that this is possible. Harris is a legend. After Racine he seemed to have gone into semi retirement before returning in triumph with Bouchon Racine, a dining room up above a pub in Farringdon. Many including Jay, below, have voted it the best in the country. I have tried and failed on many occasions to secure a table.Unlike the publisher-generated blurb for White, the tributes to this book are heartfelt and genuine. Let's quote but one, from Raymond Blanc. This is the cooking I love best of all. Henry is such a testament to French cuisine and this book showcases authentic dishes which represent the true heart of France.
It's a gloriously unpretentious work. How many chefs would have titles such as What I Learnt Along The Way and What I Love And Family Cooking? In addition to the usual sections there are chapters dedicated to cooking outside, to drinks and snacks and to condiments and other things.
I'm chuckling in anticipation to create Weapons-Grade Aioli. John and Sarah's Potatoes may well be on the menu with tonight's partridge. How can you not love a chef whose family meal on a Saturday is invariably cheeseburger, pommes frites and salad?
Having taken this off the shelf to write today's review, I'm determined it won't be returned until it has been read cover to cover.
Nights Out In The Kitchen
Jay Rayner
Penguin pp359 £22
Do sequels ever live up to the original? This is the follow up to the highly successful Nights Out At Home. It's not the same. This time it is more of what Jay Rayner, the highly talented home cook as opposed to the restaurant reviewer, cooks at home. If you've followed the man over the past decade, you will realise that this is rather a good thing.It is not a book to read if you're hungry, unless you have a fridge or store cupboard full of ready to gorge stuff. Toast features a fair bit. Thus we have it with crab, lobster Thermidor, and salted anchovies. Many of the dishes are familiar to us all: some with a little more sophistication. So Jay's deep fried Mars Bar has a tempura batter, and a topping of sea salt. OOOH, posh!
Some you may never have heard of. I refer to the Lyonnaise classic, cervelle de canut, which literally translates as silk worker's brains. (No actual silk workers are harmed in the process.) What makes this book so different from any other is the bonus of Jay Rayner's inimitable prose. This flows throughout the volume, and there is the bonus of twenty or so stand alone articles. It's worth it for those alone.
If like me you are a fan of the great man, add it to your collection.