Scotland’s National Dish – Steak Pie

As autumn sets in, we return from exotic climes and contemplate food from home.

Now hands up those of you who thought that the national dish of Scotland was haggis? Nay, my lovelies, you are sadly mistaken. Special occasions here and it has to be steak pie. Weddings, funerals and, for all I know, bar mitzvahs. And go to any Scottish butcher's shop in the last couple of days of the year, and you'll witness such serried ranks of steak pies that a spy might confuse them with troops marshalled for an invasion.

In short, it's a very popular dish, but not that easy to mass produce to the highest standard. Many recipes will have you just dust the meat in flour, season and pop in a pan with onions and some water or stock. Butchers will compensate for the relative dryness of the pie by providing you with massive quantities of gravy. In a traditional shop you take your own jug for the stuff. Making your own version at home gives the opportunity for greater refinement.

Cards on the table. I hate food with a thin and runny sauce. I've also said in the past that I'm not over enamoured with sauces which are thickened with flour at the end. There are ways round that. Your pie element? I know some purists will decry as an impostor any type of pie which doesn't have a base. That's not usually the way with a a traditional Scottish steak pie. Try to line your whole pie tin and you'll end up with a lot of stodge. Very tasty stodge I grant you, but I'd prefer to get mine in the shape of creamy mash on the side. I'm going to suggest puff pastry, and ready made at that.

So, our filling? Let's consider some variations. Typically you don't notice anything other than the meat. That's because onions conveniently disappear after a long slow cook. The glory of a pie, however, is that you can add whatever you fancy. Steak and kidney has never been as popular north of the border as it is down south. I don't like the texture of kidneys, but, cut minutely small, they do produce a wonderful gravy, which is what we're all about. Whatever you do, make your pie filling in advance and allow it to cool.

Finally, a quick word about the meat. You can use any type of beef you want, but the cheaper it is, the longer it needs to be cooked. I would use what we in Scotland call round steak, which is rump in the rest of the UK. It's relatively posh for a pie. Cooking times can only be approximate. The recipe simply says, cook until the meat is tender. Remember that it is possible to overcook the likes of rump steak.

You have a choice when it comes to cooking. I use the one pot and often cook on the hob. Some prefer to transfer to a casserole. With the one pot method, after browning the meat and veg, deglaze the pan with a little hot stock or water. If you are using very cheap meat, better to cook, covered, in the oven at 180˚C/Mark 4.

Basic Recipe (serves 4 - 6)

Ingredients

About 900g round steak, cut into chunks about 2½cm; sheet of puff pastry large enough to cover your pie dish (save work by buying ready rolled); quantity of seasoned flour (plain flour mixed with some salt and black pepper); a couple of medium onions, finely chopped; about 400ml beef stock; quantity of Worcester sauce; salt and pepper; cooking oil; 1 beaten egg (for the pastry).

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Roll the pieces of beef in seasoned flour, shaking off any excess. In batches, brown them on all sides in the oil. You want the oil to be hot, but not too hot, and you may need to top it up between batches. Set the meat to one side when coloured. In the same pan, brown the onions. Push them to one side while you deglaze the pan. The onions will have done this to an extent. With the help of a little hot stock or hot water (or wine if you're using - see the recipe below), scrape the gubbins off the bottom.

If using the one pan method, return the meat and onions to the pan, otherwise transfer to a preheated casserole. Add a few splashes of Worcester sauce. Pour over enough enough stock to cover, bring a to bubble, then reduce to a simmer and cook until the meat is tender. If as is likely, your sauce is too thin, strain it into a separate pan then bring to a boil to reduce to your desired consistency.

Once the liquid is reduced, check the seasoning. It will almost certainly benefit from some more Worcester sauce. Allow to cool completely, then transfer to a pie dish.

Preheat your oven to 200̊ C, Mark 7.

Cover with the pastry, sealing the edges well. Brush with beaten egg. Make two or three incisions in the lid, or use a pie funnel if you have one. Bake for 30 - 40 minutes until the filling is piping hot. Check after 30 minutes. If the pastry is going too dark, cover with foil.

Better Recipe

You will have noticed relatively little flavouring in the last recipe.

Ingredients

As above, but add 200ml red wine; 300ml stock instead of 400; 1 bay leaf; ½ tsp dried thyme.

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After browning the beef and onions, add the red wine and reduce by a half. Then add the stock, bay leaf and thyme, and cook as above.

Optional Extra

About 300g mushrooms, cleaned and quartered/sliced, depending on size and preference; large chunk of butter (don't be stingy).

When the beef is nearly ready, sauté the mushrooms in the butter. Add some salt. Mix the mushrooms in with the meat. Only one thing to note. You no longer have a steak pie: you have a Beef and Mushroom Pie. Use beer? We may do that some day, in which case it reverts to a Steak and Ale Pie. Confused? Me too.