Peaches and Nectarines in Wine

I'm not sure that we ever get the very best of these glorious fruit at home. The reason is obvious. They are at their very best when just picked ripe off the tree. In that case of course, they have no chance of surviving the journey. Ripen at home is an activity fraught with peril. For me, pears seem to be the worst offenders. Check them daily. Rock hard days 1 - 4. Then on day 5? Mush fit only to be binned.

It's ironic that I'm thinking about cooking today's heroes when here in Italy I can get boxes of them, ready to dribble down throat and clothes. Well we know that most really perfect fruit needs no input from mankind other than a pair of teeth. But what about firmer specimens? They will have been expensive. Do you really want to take the risk a la pear above?

I'm equating the two fruits here, but nectarines will always be my preference. I dislike the furry skin on a peach, and they're impossible to peel unless very ripe. It may be my imagination, but it seems that they are being bred to be smoother these days. Anyway, your choice.

I'm accompanied in Ravenna by Mrs Elizabeth David in the form of her master work Italian Food. Extraordinary to realise that it was first published 72 years ago. While I yield to few in my admiration of the lady, she could be a right besom. Seeking inspiration for you, I came on this next recipe, which I quote in full.

Pesche in Vino Bianco (Peaches in White Wine)

Into your last glass of wine after luncheon, slice a peeled yellow peach. Leave it for a minute or two. Eat the peach and then drink the wine.

(I do not suggest that this should be applied to a valuable Rhine wine or a cherished white Burgundy.)

Come oan, Mrs D! Let's move swiftly on.

If as is likely your fruit is on the firm side, poaching is your answer. But in what? Not, please, the sugar syrup which you would use for something sour. On holiday in France years ago I came on nectarines gently cooked in a drink called Pineau des Charentes. It's a mixture of grape juice and cognac or eau de vie. Served chilled, it's a pleasant aperitif, and is delightful splashed into the local Charentais melons. I've never been able to find it in this country.

Here was my improvisation. It works best with firm fruit.

Toms Poached Nectarines

Ingredients

Nectarines, sliced (you can use peaches, but see above); bottle of sweet Asti Spumante or equivalent,  (sparkling obviously); brandy to taste.

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Put the fruit in a single layer in a wide pan. Add enough wine and brandy to cover the fruit, making sure some of the wine is reserved. Poach gently until the fruit is soft. Pour off and reserve the cooking liquid. It will be a glorious pinky-orange colour. Chill it well. Allow the slices to cool. If you refrigerate, make sure they're not too cold when you come to serve. Make sure the remaining wine is very well chilled.

Serve the fruit with whatever you fancy. I used my favourite crème fraiche ice cream. Pour some of the cooking liquor over, then add a good glug of fizz. Delizioso! as we say in these parts.