Nuwan Wejitha’s Mutton Black Curry

This was one of the most glorious dishes I ate during our Sri Lankan tour. For breakfast, naturally. While I did occasionally go western at the start of a day - usually because we were sated from the night before - you don't go to Sri Lanka to eat western food. Your curry will be served with rice and sambol, of course, and probably some side dishes. I rather liked the places with a breakfast buffet, so you could sample a spoonful or two of everything. Samborn, anyone, (a mixed vegetable dish), or lime green tomato hodi? The latter is a thin sauce. I have no idea where the colour comes from.

This recipe comes from Uga Chen Huts, Yala, undoubtedly one of the five most delightful places I have ever stayed in. They had had a barbecue the previous night. I was decidedly uncomplimentary about the overcooking. Next thing I knew, I was being presented with (a suitably apologetic) chef Nuwan. I didn't expect to be on his Christmas card list. So the last thing I expected when I waxed lyrical about today's dish was to be greeted by the man himself with the recipe printed out.

Suspicious people will suggest that when a chef gives you a recipe, you should expect that a vital ingredient will be omitted. I have to say that that hasn't been my experience. Here it was quite the reverse. Nuwan listed tomatoes and lemongrass in the ingredients, but ignored them in the body of the recipe. I included tomatoes but ignored the lemongrass. If I get clarification, I'll let you know. He would also add some fresh coriander near the end. I didn't have any, so I omitted it. You wouldn't use dried stuff here.

I have now made this, and offer a few tips. Nuwan suggests about 50 minutes cooking time, then a further 10 after you've added your coconut milk. I would suggest you cook until your meat is tender.

Ah, the meat. Are you assuming sheep? When in the Indian subcontinent or Sri Lanka, do bear in mind that mutton means goat. I knew that my butcher could oblige, but I'm really not sure which bit of the beast I was supplied with. While some of it was reasonably tender after the hour, there were some pieces for which you needed not only your own teeth but someone else's. You could use lamb, but for a depth of flavour I would go for mutton as we know it.

Curry leaves are an ingredient which you will see mentioned a lot in authentic Indian recipes. They are widely used in Sri Lanka. The things you get in jars in UK supermarkets are a waste of space. I came back with a good supply of gently perfumed leaves which will probably last for 6 - 12 months. I suggest you root about in an Asian supermarket. They're not the most pleasant things to eat. Prior to serving I did a bit of leaf fishing

Always add your coconut milk near the end, and don't allow it to boil.

Good luck. It's a little fiddly, but worth the effort. As well as rice, I served mine with coconut sambol and a pineapple curry, but that was just showing off.

Mutton Black Curry

(An * means there is a reference in the text above.)

Ingredients

500g mutton, cubed*; 8 cloves garlic, crushed; 10g ginger, peeled and grated; 1 tbsp chilli powder; 1 tsp black mustard seeds; 3 cardamom pods; cinnamon - either 2 - 3 cm of a stick or 1 tsp ground; 20 curry leaves*; 100g fresh tomatoes, coarsely chopped; 200g thinly sliced onions; about 40g coriander leaves; 100ml light coconut milk; oil for frying (in Sri Lanka they would use coconut oil: I used olive); s & p.

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Mix the chilli powder, garlic and ginger in a bowl. Add the meat and season with salt and pepper.  Mix together well and leave to marinate for an hour.

Heat the oil in a pan. Add the mustard seed, cardamom and cinnamon stick and cook lightly for a few minutes. Add the marinated meat and stir until the meat is coloured all over. Chuck in the tomatoes. Cover and cook gently over a low heat for at least 30 minutes*. Add the chopped onions and coriander leaves and cook, still covered, for a further 20 minutes. Check the tenderness of the meat and continue cooking if necessary.

Add the coconut milk, stir together well and cook for a further 10 minutes. Check the seasoning before serving.