Locanda Terramare, Turin

Trip Advisor has a lot to answer for, it really does. But if you find yourself unexpectedly in a strange city, with no recommendations, what to do? The first night it sees us to an elegant looking place. Just a shame about the food. We're leaving the following afternoon, so lunch is called for. And it brings us here.

Nothing to look at, and barely a sinner in sight. The joint next door, on the other hand, is jumping. It looks cheerful and cheap. More importantly, the plates coming out of the kitchen (note to self - where else would they be coming from?) look great. Being ahead of time we pause here for an aperitivo, and seriously consider cancelling our booking in favour of the noisy neighbour.

I'm so glad we didn't. The subtitle of the restaurant is Cucina del sud, cuisine of the south. We learn that Chef Santino is from Sicily, his dad having come north, like so many others, to work in the Fiat factory. We get this directly from the man himself, who waits tables as well as cooking. From noises off there must be one other person in the kitchen, but it's literally a two man band. No mean feat, to prepare and serve twenty dishes.

Oh well, maybe not that minimalist

The restaurant was refurbished last year. Minimalist is the word. So often the food mirrors the decor. No such worries here. Look instead at the chef. Happy and full bodied - now that mirrors the food. Even with an English translation, parts of the menu were a bit hard to figure out, which led to some terrific surprises. I commented on the absence of meat in the  Parmigiana della Tradizione. That's the the Sicilian tradition, I was told. And a very fine tradition it was too. L took her time selecting a first course. She doesn't like octopus, which ruled a couple out, and wasn't in aubergine mode. With no great enthusiasm she went for the Tortino di verdura. Quiche, we both thought. A bit dull sounding, we both thought. Wrong and wrong again. It was a sort of timbale of veg, on a bed of something cheesy and wonderful, and the most exquisite braised onions on the side. A contender for dish of the year. Enough to turn a body vegetarian.

Except she quickly reverted. Santino explained that his meatballs are 70% veal and 30% pork. He didn't let us in on the secret of the flavouring. I'm not sure I'd attempt to replicate them. If Carlsberg made meatballs...  I had a very simple plate of lamb chops. Great meat, the fat properly rendered. And, wonder of wonders, oven potatoes worthy of the eating. I hate stereotypes, but this is one Italian dish which seldom fails to disappoint. But not here.

We were now bosom buddies, bemoaning the price of olive oil, and getting tips for the making of salsa ai noci (the walnut sauce which is a specialty of the north west). As ever, we passed on pud, though I would have been fascinated to try the Cannolo Scunzato. I guess the latter word must be Sicilian as I can't find a translation. I'm sure it would have been more appetising than the English part of the menu which translates it as decomposed cannolo.

Nothing rotten about this meal - quite the opposite. OK Trip Advisor, you're forgiven. And, Santino, you are a superstar.