Lesley Johnston’s Blinis – And What To Do With Them

As a young solicitor, the wisest advice I ever got was from a grizzled surveyor. How much do you reckon that’s worth? I asked. The answer came with a kindly twinkle. Are you buying or selling? So I’ll pose a question, and give you a similar style answer. Canapés, yes or no? My response is, are you…

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Tom Cooks! Venison Two Ways

In Wednesday’s On The Side, V was for venison. In what’s now a Tom’s Food! tradition (and it’s a good time of year for such things) what we blether about on a Wednesday we cook on a Friday. Two recipes today. The first is a fairly simple stew. When it comes to such things, simple…

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Jay’s Nights Out At Home – Chicken in a Mustard Sauce

This is the third and final extract from Jay Rayner’s excellent Nights Out At Home. The recipe is inspired by a Henry Harris recipe for rabbit in a mustard sauce. Harris made this famous in a restaurant called Racine. He is now back behind the stoves in a reasonably new venture called Bouchon Racine, above a…

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Jay’s Nights Out At Home – The Steak Bake

Perhaps unsurprisingly, these extracts from Jay Rayner’s Nights Out At Home are going down a treat. The tale of the metre long cheese toastie (OK, I exaggerate slightly) boosted circulation. For those who have missed the review of the book itself and the previous article, a very brief explanation. I suggest not that Mr Rayner would…

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Roasted Duck Legs With Potatoes and Garlic

It’s Masterchef The Professionals time again. It’s the only one I watch. Masterchef for punters just depresses me by demonstrating how far my moderate culinary talents lag behind those of serious amateur cooks. And the so called Celebrity version? How many of us can recognise more than twenty percent of them? Every year, I swear…

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Jay’s Nights Out At Home – A Cheese Toastie! Eh?

I suspect this is the first time that Scripture has ever been quoted in this blog. Despite that, even in this godless age, I’m sure you’re all familiar with Matthew 7:7, Ask and it will be given to you.  Or perhaps the complementary Scottish saying, if ye dinnae ask, ye dinnae get. These are the texts…

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Chicken, Leek and Red Pepper Pie

Chicken and leek pie

The response to last week’s column about Scotland’s national dish reminded me how much we love a pie. I tend not to repeat recipes; however, today’s is one which still features in the stats tables, despite nearly five years having elapsed since it was first published. Many of you weren’t readers in these far off…

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Scotland’s National Dish – Steak Pie

As autumn sets in, we return from exotic climes and contemplate food from home. Now hands up those of you who thought that the national dish of Scotland was haggis? Nay, my lovelies, you are sadly mistaken. Special occasions here and it has to be steak pie. Weddings, funerals and, for all I know, bar…

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Bagna Cauda, NOT Salsa di Noci

This will, I promise, be the last article to stem directly from the September trip to Italy. For some bizarre reason, not all of you are Italophiles. Pansotti con Salsa ai Noci In a recent article about the food of Liguria, I mentioned salsa ai noci. The plan was to give you a recipe for this…

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Vitello Tonnato (Veal with Tuna Mayonnaise)

In this week’s On The Side column (part 2 next Wednesday) I was being a little smug at having uncovered some of the regional food secrets of Liguria and Piedmont. I’ve always been fond of vitello tonnato and am describing it as a Piedmont specialty. As an aside, I have no idea why that should…

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Make Your Own Thai Curry

With us having spent the best part of September in Genoa, you would be forgiven for expecting a string of Italian recipes. Fret not, they’re coming soon. But you may remember a review of Ting Thai, and its wonderful, authentic Thai curries. That’s a dish which is almost up there with chicken tikka masala on…

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Pork Fillet “A La De Freitas”

We all do it from time to time, don’t we? Pick up a familiar ingredient from the shop or the freezer and do the same old thing with it. In this case, half of a pork fillet. I was blown away by the food at Macau Kitchen. In particular I raved about the aromatic crispy…

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Moussaka

On Wednesday, I touched on some of the problems of recipe writing. Other issues can involve sheer carelessness, which brought this particular one to mind. It’s broadly based on a recipe which I found online. Step 2 instructed the reader to add the garlic, oregano, cinnamon and chilli. The observant among you will note that…

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Dauphinoise Potatoes

Chefs! You just have to speak sharply to them. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve eaten a dish in a restaurant, recreated it at home, and discovered that my version wasn’t as good as theirs! Whose fault was that? The answer is obvious, hence the need for sharp talk. Folk will tell…

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Pesto and Variations

With a forthcoming trip to Genoa and a burgeoning basil plant, pesto seemed an appropriate candidate for Tom Cooks! this week. Looking at the city’s many attractions, I note that there is a plethora of classes are available to teach you how to make this sauce which the Genoese call their own. Two things won’t…

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Crêpes Suzette

This week, in case you hadn’t noticed, is in The Ritz, 100% upmarket. Don’t worry until the bill arrives. Today’s classic is one of a few dishes which they feature in the Arts De La Table section of the menu. For the non French speakers among you, this translates as Pure Swank. The menu continues,…

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Strawberries with Orange and Beetroot

Eagle eyed readers will have noted over the years that following a Food Alphabetical column on a Wednesday, Tom Cooks! on the Friday generally uses the featured ingredient. This week, reluctantly, featured tequila. I did say in conclusion that I’d rather have a bowl of strawberries. So that settles it for this week’s recipe. Well,…

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Roast Chicken & Other Stories

Not my title, unfortunately. It belongs to Simon Hopkinson and Lindsey Bareham. This fabulous little book was published exactly thirty years ago. Voted the most useful cookbook of all time, it once knocked Harry Potter (then at the height of his fame) off the top of the book charts. It takes 40 ingredients and provides…

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Cuisses de Poulet Grillées aux Riz à L’Orientale

The linguists among you will have realised that we are continuing the chicken theme. Unless, however, you are a student of Escoffier and used to have your own table at Le Gavroche, you may be unfamiliar with today’s delicacy. But you may know it better as grilled chicken and fried rice. And to make it…

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Caesar Salad

On Wednesday we looked at the genesis of the Caesar Salad. What happened next? After the end of Prohibition Caesar moved back to the US. He had realised what he was on to, and befoe long he was bottling the dressing it and selling it at Los Angeles Farmers’ Market. His daughter Rosa, who went…

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Wendy Barrie’s Farmor’s Panbiff

I think this may be a first for Tom’s Food! I’m certain we have had featured guests in On The Side who have provided recipes for Tom Cooks!: but never ever in the same week has Tom Eats! reviewed a restaurant from the same family. A hat trick for Wendy Barrie. Hold the front page! On…

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Spanakopita

I think it’s because I didn’t fancy drinking turpentine. Ouzo, raki, that sort of thing. That’s about the only reason I can think of for never having visited Greece. And lots of people tell you bad things about the food. Lukewarm, greasy, salmonella added at no extra cost. All of which sounds as sensible as…

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Sorbets and Granitas

Sorbet In 2024 I hesitate to commend anything whatsoever about Moscow, but during a visit a few years ago, something struck me. When the wife of an important person went out, she was invariably accompanied by a large man with no neck. Given the circumstances which gave rise to the inspiration for my recipe today,…

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Asparagus Soup

Asparagus bunches

How profligate, I hear you cry. Taking something which is  delicate, delicious and downright dear, and turning it into soup? Nay, best beloveds, nay. Imparting culinary knowledge to my bambini has always been a source of pleasure, never more so than when it related to today’s star veg. Having been asked how far down one…

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