Jan Bentley’s Old Doverhouse Chutney

I laugh more than I used to. A thing called retirement was largely instrumental. One thing which does make me chuckle is when someone asks me for my chutney recipe. Since I let it be known that I was in the market for unwanted apples in the season, I usually make at least one batch each…

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The Kirklands Hotel, Kinross

  The Kirklands Hotel 20 High Street, Kinross, KY13 8AN 01577 863313    www.thekirklandshotel.com The Bill A la carte Small Bites £7.00 (3 for £19.00)  Mains £13.95 – £21.95 (Small portions are available for some dishes) Desserts £5.50 – £6.95   The Score Cooking  4.5/10 | Service 3.5/5 Flavour  3.5/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 16.5/25 …

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Restaurants: When Will There Be Good News?

Boarded up restaurant

It seems to be a gloomy day. I’m not just referring to wildfires and strikes and global warming. On one of this column’s favourite subjects, restaurants, the news seems to be worse than usual. Now I’m not shedding any tears over the impending closure of Noma. Rene Redzepi has declared that the model for his…

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Lime Chicken Part 2 (Thai Style)

After last week’s classical Claire Macdonald recipe, I thought you might like a change, This is a Thai style recipe of which I’ve picked up various versions. It seems to have been made famous by the blessed Delia, but at heart it’s a Thai go to. Very simple, but first, a few pointers. Don’t get…

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Wahaca, Edinburgh

  Wahaca  16 South St Andrew Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AU 0131 564 3850 www.wahacaco.uk The Bill A la carte Nibbles £5.75 – £7.95 | Street Food £6.95 – £7.50 Bigger Plates £10.75 – £13.50 | Sides £1.95 – £5.75 Desserts £6.50 – £6.75   The Score Cooking  5/10 | Service (Visit 1 – 5/5: Visit…

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The Air Fryer Chronicles Part 1

Air Fryers. Didn’t have one; didn’t have a view for or against, though a few friends are keen devotees. Life changed last week in the shape of a large box as a  birthday present. Indian giving, possibly. Anyway, have beast, will fry. For experiment 1 below, I had no clue what to do and nothing…

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Lime Chicken Part 1

As I wrote on Wednesday, inspiration can come from strange sources: but sometimes it doesn’t come at all. Struggling a little for this week’s Tom Cooks! I remembered a lemon chicken recipe sent to me by my excellent friend, licensing lawyer extraordinaire, JH. Rereading it, I remembered why I had left it to one side. I…

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La Lanterna West End, Glasgow

  La Lanterna West End 447 Great Western Road, Glasgow G12 8HH 0141 3340686  www.lalanternawestend.co.uk   The Bill Set Lunch 2 courses £17.95 | 3 courses £22.95 Starters £5.95 – £13.50 | Pasta £15.95 – £18.95  Mains £17.95 – £35.95 | Desserts £6.50 – £6.90 The Score Cooking 5.5/10 | Service 4/5  Flavour  4/5 | Value 5/5 TOTAL 18.5/25 …

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What’s In A Name? I’ll Drink To That

Dionysus NOT Dionysios Dionysios, I said to myself. Are you sure? Is it not Dionysus? Sad, I suppose, that the idea for a column can materialise when you’re taking your best girl out for a hot date. Early evening at the flickers followed by some leftover chicken stew. Don’t tell me that I can’t show…

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Lobster Bisque from Leftovers

Professionals, look away now. Serious cooks who have created this lovingly from a classic text, do likewise. This is a true mongrel of a recipe, born of improvisation on my part, and vague memories of seeing folk on the telly doing bisque-y type stuff. All I will say in my defence is that the end…

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Langan’s Brasserie, London

  Langan’s Brasserie, Stratton Street, London W1J 8LB 020 7491 8822       www.langansbrasserie.com The Bill A la carte  Starters £13.00 – £935.00  Mains £19.00 – £68.00 | Puddings £11.50 – £16.00 The Score Cooking  6/10 | Service 3.5/5  Flavour  3/5 | Value 2/5 TOTAL 14.5/25  Well, there a few reasons. I say this in…

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Strange Culinary Things At Galungan

A question I’m commonly asked relates to unusual foods which I’ve consumed over the years. People are usually expecting tales from far flung places, involving Johnny Foreigner and his more disgusting habits. Well, it’s not just charity which begins at home. Try, as I have done, describing haggis to a busload of 50 non Scottish…

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Meg Johnston’s Caramel Custard

Having savaged the “muscovado creme caramel” which we served in hicce, reviewed in today’s Tom Eats! I thought I would share with you the recipe from the lady who made this dish better than anyone. My mum. I’ve never cooked it, as it’s not a pud that I much care for, but I have seen…

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Hicce, London

  hicce mkt (in wolf&badger) 102 Stable Street, Coal Drops Yard, Kings Cross, London N1C 4DQ 020 3869 8200 www.hicce.co.uk The Bill Boards £4.50 – £9.00  Plates £10.00 – £28.00 | Desserts £9.00 The Score Cooking 5/10 | Service 3/5  Flavour  3.5/5 | Value 1/5 TOTAL 12.5/25  Regular readers will know of my distaste for…

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P is for … Potato

My wife laughs at me. I really don’t understand why. When I’m asked what is my favourite vegetable, there can be only one answer – today’s hero, the potato. Not only do I fail to comprehend why that’s remotely amusing, I genuinely find it difficult to see why anyone would make another choice. My grandson…

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Salade Niçoise

The short but welcome blast of summer weather has got many of us reminiscing of classic meals eaten outside, probably seeking shade from the hot Mediterranean sun. Think south of France, and you probably think about Nice. The Larousse Gastronomique will tell you that à la niçoise is simply the name given to the style…

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The Rabbit Restaurant, Marine Troon

  The Rabbit Restaurant Marine Troon 8 Crosbie Road, Troon, Ayrshire KA10 6HE 01292 314444  www.therabbitandseal.com The Bill A la carte  Starters £5.00 – £13.50  Mains £12.00 – £42.50 | Desserts £7.00 – £8.50 The Score Cooking 8.5/10 | Service 4/5  Flavour  4.5/5 | Value 4.5/5 TOTAL 21.5/25  Salmon with Fennel and Sorrel Rabbit. Why…

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There’s A Strawberry In My Soup

The strawberry season is well under way. How have your experiences been? I rate it a bit better than last year, but that’s not saying much. We’ll have to wait and see if the two warm days this week represent our entire summer. With luck the red beauties will soon get the sun on their…

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Noble Rot Mayfair, London

  Noble Rot Mayfair 5 Trebeck Street, Shepherd Market, London W1J 7LT 020 7101 6770    www.noblerot.co.uk The Bill Set Lunch  2 courses £22.00 | 3 courses £26.00 A la carte Snacks and Nibbles £4.50 – £16.00  Starters £9.00 – £16.00  Mains £28.00 – £48.00 | Desserts £9.00 – £12.00 The Score Cooking  8.5/10 |…

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Claire Macdonald’s Asparagus Timbales with Hollandaise Sauce

Asparagus bunches

Claire Macdonald Just over a year ago at the Masterchefs’ Lunch, I met one of my food heroes, Claire Macdonald. Not only is she delightful, she gave me permission to reproduce her recipes. We try to stay seasonal here, and ingredients don’t get much more seasonal than British asparagus. I’ve written about it before. As…

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Glaschu Restaurant & Bar, Glasgow

  Glaschu Restaurant & Bar 32 Royal Exchange Square, Glasgow G1 3AB 0141 248 2214    www.glaschurestaurant.co.uk The Bill Market Menu 2 courses £25.00 | 3 courses £30.00 A la carte Appetisers £3.50 – £7.00 | Starters £10.00 – £18.00  Mains £23.00 – £42.50 | Desserts £8.00 – £8.50 The Score Cooking  6/10 | Service…

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O is for… OXO

Well some Food Alphabeticals are easier than others, and time was short for today. Even the mighty Larousse Gastronomique has only 10 pages for the letter O. Despite the illustration on the left, today’s choice is not based on a favourite ingredient of mine. What I prefer to feature is something which has a bit of history,…

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