Potato Salad Three Ways

If you are a fan of Antiques Roadshow, you'll be familiar with the Good, Better, Best, challenge where Fiona Bruce is invited to assess three items in order of value. The inspiration, in an odd way, for today's column.

A recent trip to Vienna brought potato salad to mind. I see that nine years have passed since I featured it in this column. The heading, modestly, was Tom's Perfect Potato Salad. I stand by that description (though since this column was first published I have had a tip from my eldest daughter which is incorporated below). I found a recipe for the Vienna version by way of comparison. Note that Austrian erdäpfelsalat differs from its Germanic cousin, and not in a good way. The sweet and tangy version does not appeal to me.

To complete the trio I turned to Julia Child and Chums for the Mastering the Art of French Cookery version. Slightly changing the name of the Antiques Roadshow game, I will dub today's article, Edible If You're Starving; Better; Best.

All three versions have a few things in common. You need waxy potatoes. Recipes from the States often specify Yukon Gold, which I've never seen here. Use Charlotte or Anya, or those sold as salad potatoes. For me it has to be a tattie which needs peeling. Cook with the skin on and peel while still warm. That allows the flavours to be absorbed. A scrubbed new potato presents a certain barrier to absorption of flavour.

Austrian Potato Salad (Wiener Erdäpfelsalat)

Ingredients

800g waxy potatoes; 200ml vegetable or chicken stock (hot); 45ml white wine vinegar; 1 tbsp mustard (not English); 3 tbsp neutral oil (e.g. sunflower or rapeseed); about 80g shallot or mild onion, finely diced; 1 tsp sugar; splash of pickle juice (optional); s & p; chopped parsley or chives to garnish.

************************************************

Start by making the dressing. Whisk together the vinegar, mustard and sugar. Pour in the hot stock. Stir in the diced shallot or onion and season with s & p and the pickle juice if using.

Boil the potatoes until tender.  Drain and peel as soon as you can handle them. (Use a fork to hold.) Cut into bite sized chunks, not too small.

Gently mix the warm potatoes with the dressing and leave for 15 minutes. The dressing should be absorbed. After 15 minutes fold in the oil and adjust the seasoning. Leave at room temperature for another 15 - 30 minutes. Add the garnish and serve.

French Potato Salad (Pommes de Terre à L'Huile)

Ingredients

About 900g potatoes; 4 tbsp dry white wine; 2 tbsp stock; 2 tbsp wine vinegar; 1 tsp mustard; generous pinch of salt; 5 tbsp oil (Julia's recipe says olive or salad); s & p; 2 - 3 tbsp chopped mixed green herbs or parsley.

************************************************

Cook and peel the potatoes as per the previous recipe. Pour the wine and the stock over the warm potatoes and leave until the liquid is absorbed.

Beat the vinegar, mustard and salt together until the salt has dissolved. Beat in the oil a little at a time as though making mayonnaise. Season to taste with s & p then pour the mixture over the potatoes, and stir gently together. Decorate with the herbs before serving.

Tom's Perfect Potato Salad

What you use by way of onion is a matter of personal preference. I find ordinary onion or shallot too strong. You could, I suppose, use mild Spanish onion, but you are missing out on colour. Chives can do the job, but I prefer the green parts of spring onions. In the UK it's not uncommon to encounter this salad made with mayo alone. I find that too cloying. For me a 50:50 mix of plain yoghurt and mayonnaise works well, but experiment and find out what suits you.

A final word on seasoning. Add s & p as you mix together. You will almost certainly need more than you might think. Allow to cool, then check again. A final grating of black pepper just before serving will always be a good thing.

Ingredients

About 800g waxy potatoes; bunch of spring onions (green parts only) finely chopped, and/or large bunch of chives; equal quantities of mayonnaise and natural yoghurt; 1 tsp Dijon mustard*;  s & p.

************************************************

Cook and chop the potatoes as per the last two recipes. Add the spring onions and a good portion of salt and pepper. Add the mustard. Add mayonnaise and yoghurt to the consistency you want (it will be absorbed slightly) then fold the mixture together trying not to break up the potatoes. When adding the mayo and yoghurt remember the rule that you can always add, but you can’t take away. You want an end result that is neither too dry nor too wet. When everything is mixed together, check the seasoning again. I will be surprised if you don’t want more salt, and you will certainly need more pepper. Allow to cool (though you can serve it still warm if you wish. Check seasoning again and add a grind of black pepper before serving.

Final Tip – if you’re inviting me, make 50% more than you think you’ll need, and have to hand a suitable container for use as a doggy bag.

* I am indebted to daughter Rosie for the tip of adding a little mustard. With that quantity you won't be able to taste it, but it adds a little something. Ta, chook.